In Kansas City, Memphis, and other rib capitals, most barbecuers cook in a "wet" style, applying a sauce near the end of the cooking and again before serving. In Texas, where people love to be contrary, the ribs are often left "dry", as they are here.

For the Ribs:

• 3 full slabs of pork spareribs, "St. Louis cut" (trimmed of the chine bone and brisket flap), preferably 3 pounds each or less

• 1/3 cup ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup paprika
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1 tablespoon chili powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
• 1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder

• 12 ounces beer
• 1/2 cup cider vinegar
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/4 cup oil, preferably canola or corn
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon Barbecued Rib Rub
• 1/2 medium onion, chopped

1. The night before you plan to barbecue, combine the rub ingredients in a small bowl. Apply the rub evenly to the ribs, reserving about half of the spice mixture. Place the slabs in a plastic bag and refrigerate them overnight.

2. Before you begin to barbecue, take the ribs from the refrigerator. Pat them down with the remaining rub, reserving 1 tablespoon of it if you plan to use the mop. Let the ribs sit at room temperature for 30 to 40 minutes. Prepare the smoker for barbecuing, bringing the temperature to 200 degrees F to 220 degrees F.

3. If you are going to baste the ribs, mix together the beer, vinegar, water, oil, onion, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, and rub in a large saucepan. Warm the mop liquid over low heat.

4. Transfer the meat to the smoker. Cook the ribs for 5 to 6 hours, turning and basting them with the mop about once an hour in a wood-burning pit, or as appropriate in your style of smoker.