| JOHNNY
APPLE.
Bernard
Malamud wrote, "Without heroes
we're all plain people and don't know
how far we can go." Johnny Apple
is all about how far a man can go.
He is a man of near infinite curiosities
and many are laser trained on food
and wine. I had the special pleasure
of tailing along as he raced through
the tropical streets of Miami in search
of "the most perfect Cuban sandwich".
He called me and said, "Can we
meet at Latin America Cafeteria in
forty minutes?" His voice is
of unmistakable Yankee tenor and I
can hear it when I read his columns
on war, politics, food and wine in
The New York Times.
I
said sure and I, along with my wife
Janet rode through the increasingly
darkening skies of mid-afternoon day.
When we got to the place it was a
mob scene. Johnny came bounding out
of a big Mercedes that his charming
wife Betsey was about to manipulate
into a tiny parking space. His notepad
was in his hand and he put his elbows
on Janet's side and, looking over
his cockeyed reading glasses said,
his voice rising at the end of most
sentences in the way that does, "isn't
this place GREAT!" It wasn't
a question. "It's on ALL THREE
of the lists I have for 'sandwich
MUST EATS'".
The
dining room is actually a tarp-covered
patio. We were handed the large plastic
covered menus, sat on plastic chairs
and took it all in. |
As we ordered juices and our sandwiches
the skies opened and beat a tattoo
on the tarp and created a rhythm section
to match the samba scene of people
coming and going, eating and laughing.The
clientele was 99% Latin and 100% local.
Despite that they treated us with
patience as Johnny drilled them with
questions. He quickly found the manager
and, following over 40 years of a
reporter's habit, got to the bottom
of the story. He came back, tossed
his notebook down in declaration and
said, "I've got it! Each sentence
a compressed Kodak image
500
sandwiches are made every 8 hours
two
men work the sandwich presses
they
cut the bread with long serrated knives
and then use them like spatulas to
flip the sandwiches around
the
ham is from Virginia now not Spain
there
are five restaurants in this chain
the
chief difference is in the dough of
the bread
horsemeat was used
in earlier times on some of the sandwiches
."
and so on
He
couldn't have been happier when the
pieces of his culinary "Five
W's" puzzle fit. Such joy was
infectious and any conversation that
might have been in process would be
jumped from whomever's tracks without
any hint of pushiness on his part.
It was just Johnny Apple marveling
at the quotidian world with the same
verve a human might at a chapel or
a mountain or of a hero showing us
how far we can go. |