Tina Fiore:
When you were younger, you had dreams of being a baseball player
Todd
English: I played from the time I was seven years old. My father
was my first baseman coach. I had opportunities that I never really
pursued with some Miami teams and a few larger colleges, and
then I ended up bailing and began cooking.
TF:
What was it about cooking that you loved most?
TE:
I liked the energy, the action, the camaraderie
I often compare
the kitchen to sports and compare the chef to a coach. There are a lot
of similarities to it.
TF:
Youre coaching a huge team!
TE:
Yeah, although really I only coach a few, but its definitely a
trip and a challenge to get everybody going in the same direction.
TF:
Have you had a lot of the same people working for you over the years?
TE:
I have actually been very fortunate having the same people. The cooks
come and go, but basically the management has stayed the same.
TF:
One of your biggest challenges must be hiring
how have you found
your core staff over the years?
TE:
Sometimes its recruiting; sometimes its bringing them up
through the ranks. They come in as either bussers or line cooks, and
then as they progress, I move them up to give them new challenges. Thats
part of what Im doing too with the growth (restaurant expansion),
I have the opportunity to give people new challenges.
TF:
Do you have any kind of incentive or benefit programs for your staff?
TE:
Yeah, we definitely do. Certain key people are tied to profit-sharing
and lots of trips. We try to do a lot of extra-curricular activities.
We went over to Italy for a big wine expo - there were about 7 or 8
of the chefs and a couple of wine guys. We were in a van and we drove
around and we ate and we drank until we couldnt do it anymore.
It was fun. We visited some wineries and went to markets a little
culinary tour of Venice and Fruili.
TF:
What was your original inspiration when you started out? Why Olives?
Why Charlestown, MA?
TE:
We opened up in 1989. The economy wasnt great. Boston seemed to
be ready, but I wasnt sure about having new restaurants. How I
landed in Boston, I dont know. I lived and worked in New York
for years, but I just got a job (in Boston) and ended up realizing theres
a great market here and its a nice lifestyle and there are a lot
of interesting people that I thought could be customers. Having been
to Europe and working and traveling there, the restaurants my wife and
I remember were always off the beaten trail restaurants. So I tried
to seek a little "off the beaten trail," but cool area. Boston
is made up of a bunch of neighborhoods really, so we found Charlestown
- they were just redoing it and there was an interesting little main
street with gas lamps. It was quaint; it had a really nice thing going
on there. So, I had the opportunity. I opened up the restaurant
and the rest is history.
TF:
What were some of the challenges you faced starting out, some of the
lessons you learned?
TE:
Well, I had always been in the kitchen and had some management experience,
but I never ran the front nor ran a whole restaurant. Some of the things
I think I learned from that were very educational as far as just paying
bills - the basics in dealing with a restaurant like that. It was just
life the education involved in running the organization, even
on a small level. I always say that I feel like Im in my own case
study at the Harvard Business School. Ive learned by trial and
error; Ive made some mistakes, and decisions on paying bills,
learning how to buy and put in kitchen equipment, learning how the cash
flow works or how to read a P & L, negotiating leases, and learning
how to do all those things you dont really know (when starting
out). Those are all important things from the business standpoint. So
the thing I think Ive probably learned most about (running) a
business is continuing to also learn about cooking and what people want.
TF:
Many of our younger users aspire to become professional chefs, but wonder
what route to take
what would your advice be to them? If you were
to do it over, would you have taken the same path?
TE:
I think you have to find your favorite restaurant, or find a restaurant
you like, get to know the people, and ask them if you can volunteer.
Most people will let you do that, observe, hang out in the kitchen,
see what youre getting into. Tell them the reason why you want
to do it. I think a lot of people have a misconception of what the kitchen
is about, but you know the grueling part of it is also the pleasure
of it. Thats why I think you have to have a certain mentality
to understand what that is and be able to handle it. Its like
professional athletes when you see a great golfer swing a golf
club or a great tennis player swing a racquet - they make it look so
easy. The kitchen is the same thing if its a professional
kitchen, they can make it look a lot easier than it is, and when you
really get in there you realize that its not that easy.
TF:
You are always experimenting with different types of ingredient combinations
Do you still go into the kitchen with a bunch of ingredients simply
to see what you can do with them?
TE:
Absolutely. Thats always a passion its what keeps
me going everyday. There are visions that come at different times. The
other day I was thinking of tuna, and then I was thinking of Tuna
au Poivre - I was thinking about aromatic flavors. So, I thought,
what if we take tuna steaks and bury them in peppercorns, coriander
and red peppers and roast it that way. I havent done it yet, but
things like that come to mind. Its almost like salt-roasting,
but its pepper-roasting.
Im
hoping to do a lot of experimentation at the W (Hotel) in New York at
Union Square where were going to be doing the breakfast. Itll
be opening in November. Its designed by David Rockwell. Im
very excited about the opportunity, but Im thinking also of the
idea of writing breakfast menus, which I really havent done a
lot of because Ive been working in restaurants and not necessarily
hotels. Im looking forward to it I dont like to cook
eggs but I like the idea of doing some different things and to
get people psyched up for breakfast in a new light.
TF:
Do you find it a little intimidating opening Olives in New York - the
most competitive restaurant city in the world?
TE:
Yeah, Im definitely nervous and excited. I feel like Ive
been playing off-Broadway, not to say that Boston doesnt have
a great theatre district or great theatre, but its not going to
Broadway; its just a different city.
TF:
It has been said that your name has become a brand in itself
Describe
the philosophy behind this "brand" in your cuisine, service,
etc.
TE:
Someone asked me that the other day
and it kind of struck me as
odd, but in a way thats sort of what the mission of this is. It
really is about creating a system or a structure or a signature thats
your signature, your trademark your brand, so to speak
that people recognize as a certain style or quality. So that when people
hear your name or your product, one thing comes to their minds
usually, hopefully, it means quality or its something that people
understand. As in anything, like people say Kleenex, and everybody knows
what that is. Thats what the inspiration is - by creating this
brand, youre creating this institution of whatever this Todd English
thing is and thats what people will associate as a certain level
of quality, a certain level of prestige whatever registers in
their minds. It really is about being able to build a bigger foundation
and a bigger company, and tap into other markets besides just cooking
the food plate by plate. The business of cooking, the plate by plate
business, which is the restaurant business is hard - you cant
do it forever. Thats the idea of why were building a brand.
TF:
Do you have difficulty maintaining your reputation? It must be hard
to keep control over every area of your business.
TE:
It is, but one thing that should always be associated (with Chef Englishs
restaurants) is theres always a style or a fashion that
theres that one thing that stands out, whatever it might be. It
might be the color, the plating style, the layering (of food)
whatever the style is, that it really does represent who I am.
TF:
How do you go about hiring chefs/sous chefs/pastry chefs? Is there a
training/orientation period? Are you open to allowing the chefs experiment
with the cuisine making up specials for the night, etc?
TE:
Yes, we have a training period; we have certain guidelines and structure.
You cant hire talented people and stifle them. Thats not
the way it works anymore. Were talking about an industry thats
really changing, really moving we have to look at it very differently
now. If you dont look at it differently, youre not going
to maximize the potential of it. You have to use the talent you have,
use the people because the bottom line is that this business is still
a people business and always will be.
TF:
Have you had a consistent relationship with specific purveyors throughout
the years? Which ones?
TE:
Ive had a lot of the same purveyors. Theres a guy in Boston
that I buy from, his name is Kim Marden (Captain Marden's in Wellesley,
MA) hes an amazing fish purveyor. Hes very, very
conscientious - hes very much into taking care of his customers,
going to the smaller boats in Gloucester and buying the day-boat
fish. And in Boston, he can really get some good stuff.
TF:
Youve become involved in many forms of media TV, books,
Internet have you taken advantage of the technological revolution
in your restaurants?
TE:
Were trying to get hooked up with this new Internet service, which
films with live cameras in the kitchens connected to the Internet. Well
actually be putting it in Kingfish Hall (opened July 1 in Boston) and
in Washington (Olives Restaurant). Ill be able to dial them up
anywhere I want and see whats going on in the kitchen.
TF:
Tell us a little about Kingfish Hall.
TE:
Its basically a fish house. I call it an old-fashioned seafood
house for the new millennium. We are trying to update what we know as
old fish houses and places like that, which are great, but I want to
give it a new, fresh look with updated versions of the classics we all
love.
TF:
On a different note, as a father of three, how do you balance your personal
and professional life?
TE:
I say, "Kids, its quality not quantity." I dont
know how else to do it today. I have certain ambitions and we want to
do certain things with our life. My daughter Isabelle came home the
other day, shes 7, and shed written an essay at school.
She said, "You know I dont see my dad a lot, but hes
a chef and when he is around, its great and we also get to go
to really cool places."
TF:
When you have a family get-together, do your kids help you out in the
kitchen?
TE:
Sometimes, I try to get them working. My older son is 10 and hes
pretty interested. We had a dinner party the other night and he helped
a lot. He helped peel asparagus; he hung out. It was great.
TF:
What do you think is the best way to get kids into cooking to
get them to try new things?
TE:
Like anything, you dont force it on them. It just becomes part
of life have them be around it, keep them informed talk
about it. I try to relay my passion for it in these ways. The second
you try to force anything on your own kid, they rebel.
TF:
Do you have any plans to open restaurants abroad?
TE:
Were looking at London as an opportunity.
TF:
Any other future plans, besides taking a well-deserved break?
TE:
That would be a good one! Were working on the television shows.
Im also working on a cooking academy, which will be a combination
of a school for the chefs in my company with a school with classes for
adults with different cooking stations - learning how to make drinks,
working with wood-burning ovens things like that. We have a lot
of things in the works.