David Reyonso
THE BUTCHER SHOP | Boston

Despite his Mexican background – or perhaps because of it – David Reynoso is right at home executing the Italian and Mediterranean-based dishes at Barbara Lynch’s The Butcher Shop in the South End. Reynoso’s attraction to Italian food stems from the fact that the cuisine, like his native Mexican, has soul, background, and tradition. David’s culinary career began when he left his family farm outside of Mexico City at the age of 15 and took a job as a dishwasher at Spiaggia restaurant in Chicago. After culinary school and a stage abroad in Italy, Reynoso worked in a variety of Italian restaurants, including the well-known Italian Trattoria Mangia in Kenosha, Wisconsin, In 1998, David moved to Boston to assume the position of chef at critically acclaimed Café Louis. He then became the Chef of Kitchen Operations for Barbara Lynch's two South End Restaurants: The Butcher Shop and B&G Oysters. Now he focuses primarily on The Butcher Shop, overseeing both the menu and retail development. David’s quiet and humble demeanor belies the fact that he’s all about the food, not the show.

Roasted Cervena Venison Loin with Pasilla Sauce and Shiitake Mushroom Tamales
Chef David Reynoso of The Butcher Shop—Boston, MA
Adapted by StarChefs.com

Yield: 6 Servings

Ingredients:

Pasilla Sauce:
• 12 pasilla peppers, toasted
• 3 Tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
• ½ cup chopped onions
• ½ Tablespoon finely chopped ginger
• 1 Tablespoon finely chopped garlic
• ½ cup chopped tomatoes
• 6 cups chicken stock
• ¼ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
• ¼ teaspoon black pepper, toasted and ground
• 2 cloves, toasted and ground
• ¼ teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground
• 2 Tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted and ground
• 1/8 cup raisins
• 4 prunes
• 1/8 cup almonds, toasted and ground
• 1/8 cup pumpkins seeds, toasted and ground
• 1 sprig marjoram
• ¼ cup white bread, small dice
• Kosher salt
• 1 Tablespoon unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
  
  Tamale Filling:
• 3 Tablespoons vegetable oil
• ½ cup thinly sliced onions
• 2 cups cleaned and sliced shiitake mushrooms
• 1 teaspoon chopped cilantro
• ¼ cup Pasilla Sauce
• Kosher salt
  
  Tamales:
• 12 ears corn, including their husks
• 1¼ pounds masa for tortillas
• ¼ cup lard
• 1 Tablespoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon ground anise seeds
• 1¼ cups chicken stock
  
  Venison:
• 3 Tablespoons lard or vegetable oil
• 2 pounds cleaned Cervena venison loin
• Kosher salt and pepper

Method:

For Pasilla Sauce:
Soak peppers in a bowl filled with warm water for 30 minutes. In a large sauce pot, warm the lard or vegetable oil. Add onions, ginger and garlic to the pot and sweat the mixture until onions are soft. Remove peppers from the water and add to the onion mixture. Add tomatoes and stir for 5 minutes or until the tomatoes and peppers start to break apart. Add chicken stock, all the spices, raisins, prunes, almonds, pumpkin seeds, marjoram, and white bread to the pot. Cook for 35 minutes on low to medium heat, stirring constantly. Season sauce with kosher salt. Puree the sauce in a blender and then pass it through a fine strainer. Incorporate chocolate, stirring until melted.

For Tamale Filling:
In a large sauté pan, warm the vegetable oil. Add onions and sweat until they are translucent and soft. Add shiitake mushrooms and sauté for 5 minutes or until they are soft. Remove mixture from heat and allow to cool. Add chopped cilantro and pasilla sauce.

For Tamales:
If using corn husks, soak in warm water overnight. Or cut 6 pieces of aluminum foil into 5-inch squares. In an electric mixer whip the masa with lard until light and airy, about 10 minutes. Fold in baking powder, ground anise, and chicken stock. Spread ½ cup of tamale dough onto the corn husk or aluminum foil. Place 2 Tablespoons of mushroom filling inside and fold all sides closed. If using corn husks, tie each end with corn husk strips. Place tamales in a steamer for 45 minutes.

For Venison:
Heat the lard or vegetable oil in a cast iron pan. Season venison loin with kosher salt and pepper and then sear on all sides, cooking to rare or medium rare. Allow meat to rest for 5 minutes before slicing and serving.

To Serve:
Spread ½ cup of warm pasilla sauce onto a plate in a circle. Peel the corn husk or aluminum foil off the tamales. Place 1 tamale in the middle of each plate. Arrange 2-3 slices of venison loin on the plated and garnish with cilantro leaves and kosher salt.

Wine Pairing:
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo 2004

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