John Gertsen
NO. 9 PARK | Boston
For John Gertsen, an after-school job as a “dishwasher/busboy/prep
cook/slave” at the age of fifteen exposed him to the addictive
buzz of restaurant life. While at college, he served as a wine steward
at an exclusive underground wine society where, for the first time,
he was exposed to the pomp and circumstance that fine wines (and
oenephiles) could demand. During a post-graduate year in Africa,
John debated a future in the bio-tech field, but opted to follow
his true passion. Returning to the States, he assumed roles at restaurants
in Boston, settling at Salamander under Chef Stan Frankenthaler.
During his five year stint as maitre d’, bartender, and front
of house coordinator, John was able to explore his love for the
industry. In 2002, he joined the staff at No. 9 Park, and
working with bar manager Ryan McGrale, the two have created a bar
program which has gained national recognition and a loyal local
following. Both have derived endless inspiration from the gay ‘90s,
that is, the 1890s – when bartenders were showmen and the
classic cocktails were invented.
Spiced Cider Brulée
Bar Chef John Gertsen of No. 9 Park – Boston, MA
Adapted by StarChefs.com
Yield: 1 (5-ounce) Serving
Ingredients:
Spiced Cider:
- 1 gallon apple cider
- 20 cloves
- 10 cinnamon sticks (2-3 inches)
- 10 star anise pods
- Zest of 4 navel oranges
Cardamom Foam:
- 30 green cardamom pods
- 2 Tahitian vanilla pods
- 1½ quarts water
- 2 quarts Demerara sugar
- 10 grams gelatin (sheets)
Spiced Cider Brulée:
- 2 ounces Appleton Estate 12-year rum
- 1 ounce Spiced Cider
- 1 ounce Cardamom Foam
Method:
For Spiced Cider:
Place all ingredients into a 6-quart pan. Put pan on stove over
medium heat. When the cider begins to simmer, reduce heat to low
and simmer for 15 minutes.
Remove pan from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Pour
cider and spices into a clean, one gallon container and refrigerate
overnight. The next day, strain through a double layer of cheesecloth
into a clean, one gallon container. This cider will keep for two
weeks in the refrigerator. Yields approximately one gallon cider.
For Cardamom Foam:
Place cardamom into a 6-quart pan. Crush pods with a wooden muddler
or pestle. Add vanilla and water and put pan on stove over medium
heat. While stirring, pour sugar into the pan. Continue stirring
until sugar dissolves (do not bring temperature above 140° F.
Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Pour this
solution into a clean, one gallon container and store in the refrigerator
for three weeks. Strain the refrigerated solution through a double
layer of cheesecloth into a clean, one gallon container.
Pour ¼ of this solution into a 2-quart pan. Reserve remaining
¾ of solution in the refrigerator. Place pan on stove over
medium heat.
Stir solution in pan and bring temperature to 135° F. Remove
pan from heat. Place gelatin sheets in a clean 1-quart container
and cover with cold water. Allow gelatin to soften in cold water
for 5 minutes. Put softened gelatin sheets into the warmed solution
and stir until dissolved. Pour gelatin-enriched solution into the
remaining ¾ of chilled solution. Strain this through a double
layer of cheese cloth into a clean, one gallon container. Yields
approximately 2½ quarts of foam.
To Assemble and Serve Cocktail:
Pour rum and cider into an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously
for 15 seconds. Strain into a pre-chilled cocktail glass. Pour 1
pint of chilled Cardamom Foam into a 500-milliliter whipped cream
canister (ISI Cream Profi). Place the canister head onto the bottle
and screw on tightly. Insert Nitrous Oxide charger into charger
holder. Screw charger holder into the canister head. Shake vigorously
3 to 4 times. Turn canister upside down and press the lever gently
to dispense foam onto the cocktail.
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