Huitlacoche, a fungus peculiar to corn, is
one of the delicacies you'll find on the menus at Mexicana Mama
and Noche. Considered a blight by American farmers (it's called
"corn smut" here) it's prized in Mexico as a seasonal
delight. The spores of the fungus grow inside corn kernels, eventually
taking over and forming grey-black lobes. They may look unsavory,
but they bear the best characteristics of the corn and the fungus--a
slightly sweet corn taste tempered by an earthy mushroom flavor
reminiscent of nuts. Huitlacoche is available canned and frozen
year-round in Mexican groceries and by mail order. If you're lucky
enough to find it fresh, don't pass up the opportunity to use
it in almost any recipe that calls for mushrooms--or you can take
some direction from the pros and give these recipes a whirl.