Toshiyuki
Kiuchi’s Hitachino Nest Beer
By Jim Clarke
In 1996, after 173 years as a sake brewer, the Kiuchi Brewery
began to produce beer as well. Prior to 1994 Japanese regulations
had actually made this expansion difficult, if not impossible,
so Hitachino Nest Beer was in the forefront of a microbrew revolution.
Many of the revolutionaries have already stumbled, however, largely
due to beers that were too timid to make an impression on the
drinker. In a short time they have already made a name for themselves
by releasing creative brews that tip their hats to a number of
international influences, radically different from the lager-styles
of Japan’s “Big Four:” Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo,
and Suntory.
In terms of craft, the move from sake to beer was not a big jump;
although many people associate sake more with wine, beer and sake
are both made from grains and share a similar production process.
The jump in flavor profiles is bigger. While sake is known for
a sophisticated and, for Americans at least, restrained character,
craft beers are noted for boldness. Hitachino hasn’t yet
made any aggressively hoppy or bitter beers, but they do push
the envelope with their unusual adjuncts – adjuncts that
add distinction, as opposed to merely stretching out the beer.
Their flagship beer, at least in international competitions, has
been their White Ale, a Belgian-style wheat beer, flavored
during the brewing process with coriander, nutmeg, orange juice,
and orange peel. This light golden beer has a complex floral
nose with notes of apricot, sherry, and coriander. It is mild
and refreshing in the mouth with a finish marked by pumpkin pie
spices and lemon. A great drink for the summer.
Their
Sweet Lacto-Stout harkens back to an older style. Beers made with
the addition of milk sugars first came to light at the turn of
the last century in England and continued in popularity until
World War II, when their numbers began to dwindle in the face
of competition from mass-produced styles. The lactose used in
the beer was traditionally a by-product of cheese production,
and the wisdom of the day held that this style of beer suited
pregnant women because of its lower alcohol and sweeter flavor.
I found Hitachino’s rendition to be rich but not overly
sweet, with a creamy texture and malty flavors plus elements of
walnut and black tea. I also found an earthy quality and a note
of nori, but the latter might be an attempt on my part to see
the beer as particularly Japanese.
An
offering that is particularly Japanese, or at least Asian, is
the Red Rice Ale. The first record of red rice being used to brew
beer dates from the Tang Dynasty in China. While many rice beer
producers now use modern, technologically developed strains, Hitachino
has decided to stick with the original. This is a far cry from
using rice as an adjunct to stretch out a beer; the flavor of
red rice is integral to the product. The brewing process requires
polishing and milling of the rice grains just as sake-making does,
and red rice is not the sole sugar source; pilsner malt is added
after the rice’s starch molecules have been converted into
sugars. The beer is actually fermented with both ale and sake
yeasts. This complicated process creates a higher alcohol beer
with strawberries, raspberries, and a streak of white pepper on
both the nose and palate. The sake influence is noticeable but
not predominant, making for a very smooth beer with a touch of
glycerol on the finish.
Their
last beer is probably the most recognizable to American drinkers,
a traditional German Weizen, or wheat, beer. It’s
medium-bodied in the mouth, with banana, clove, and a touch of
apple aromas, as well as a bready, yeasty note on the finish.
A brother to the White Ale and, like many wheat beers, great with
a slice of lemon.
The Japanese are enthusiastic beer drinkers, and it’s exciting
to see their zeal being matched by some diversity in beer production.
Hitachino has taken a mix of styles and added their own spin to
create some brews with distinctive personalities. The Kiuchi Brewery
also continues to move forward with new things; they have planted
a variety of grapes in anticipation of adding winemaking to their
portfolio, alongside beer and sake. There’s every reason
to expect some well-thought out, sincerely crafted wines, and
I look forward to seeing their adorable owl label in my local
wine shop.
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Some
of the Awards Bestowed on Hitachino Nest Beers: |
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Germany
DLG Guarantee of Quality Contest:
HITACHINO NEST BEER WEIZEN - Gold Medal
HITACHINO NEST BEER AMBER ALE - Silver Medal |
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ABT
Competition in England:
HITACHINO NEST BEER WEIZEN - Gold Medal
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U. S. World Beer Cup in
New York:
HITACHINO NEST BEER WHITE ALE - Gold Medal
Japan Beer Cup:
HITACHINO NEST BEER WHITE ALE - Gold Medal
HITACHINO NEST BEER AMBER ALE - Gold Medal
HITACHINO NEST BEER XH - Gold Medal
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Contact
Information
Learn more about the Kiuchi Brewery and Hitachino Nest
Beers on their website: http://www.kodawari.cc/engpage/engtop.htm.
Their beers are imported into the U.S. by B.United International:
http://www.bunitedint.com/; contact them to find local
distributors and retailers.
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