By Amy Tarr

Miami’s “hot-or-not” index may fluctuate from one moment to the next with the Hollywood set, but from a chef’s or food lover’s perspective, there’s always plenty of action on the restaurant scene. Latin flavors continue to dominate in Miami and its environs with several outstanding options. For the extreme-sport food lover who may be in between visits to Ferrán Adrià’s El Bulli, Barcelona-born Jordi Vallès will take good care of you at Mosaico, where the culinary traditions and methods of Spanish cuisine are redefined using modern techniques. At Cacao, the foundation of Chef Edgar Leal’s cuisine is Venezuelan, but nouvelle style French and Spanish elements give it an other-worldly sophistication. At Carmen the Restaurant, chef Carmen Gonzalez cooks up her own interpretations of Latino flavor, with ingredients like yucca, mofongo and plantains showing up in an array of dishes that reflect her Puerto Rican heritage.

While Latin eateries are hotter than ever in Miami, there is no lack of superb Italian options. South Beach’s superstar is Brescia-born chef Sergio Sigala of Casa Tua, whose approach to his native Italian cuisine is delicate without being precious. Sigala’s homemade taglioini with caviar has become legendary among the culinatti, and for good reason; it is simply divine. Slightly off the beaten path is Timo in nearby Sunny Isles. If delicate homemade pastas and wood-fired pizzas aren’t enough to lure you outside of Miami proper, Chef Tim Andriola’s melt-in-your mouth Red Wine Braised Short Ribs will. If you’re interested in a little of everything, Talula’s eclectic menu will keep you entertained. Chef Andrea Curto-Randazzo and husband Frank Randazzo find inspiration in their shared Italian heritage, as well as the flavors of the Caribbean, Asia, and the Americas.

Keeping up with the high staff turnover in Miami is practically a full-time job. Many of the city’s executive chefs complain that they have to hire, fire, and then rehire staff each season, leading to instability and inconsistency in their kitchens. Luckily we can still depend on Norman Van Aken, constant as the North Star, to deliver that quintessential Miami flavor. His restaurants - featuring his distinctive New World Cuisine - are expanding throughout Southern Florida and now Los Angeles, but Coral Gables continues to serve as Van Aken’s home base. In addition to his eponymous restaurant there, sister restaurant Mundo embodies the concept of a global bistro. And, as his business grows, Van Aken relies on a stellar team of up-and-coming chefs to execute flawless and creative dishes nightly, including Jeffrey Brana, Chef de Cuisine of NORMAN’S, as well as Arthur Artiles and Max Santiago, respectively Chef de Cuisine and Executive Pastry Chef of Mundo.

As New Yorkers, the StarChefs editorial team is accustomed to the frantic pace at which restaurants open. As soon as we cross off a restaurant on our list, three more open with a critical mass of buzz. Miami’s restaurant scene feels more manageable, though far from stagnant. We always look forward to frequent return trips, because there will be our old favorites plus a few new contenders for our affection. We eagerly await the launch of Kris Wessel’s new restaurant concept in Miami. Wessel was formerly the Executive Chef of Elia Restaurant in Bal Harbour; he is definitley a chef to watch. And after the disappointingly short-lived existence of La Broche - a noble attempt to bring Spain's Nueva Cocina to Miami - we are hopeful that Karu, with La Broche alum, Gerdy Rodriguez, at the helm, will be a success. The latest reports peg the opening for some time in 2006. In the meantime, we're happy to recommend the following Miami eateries.

RESTAURANTS
SOUTH BEACH

Casa Tua
1700 James Ave
Miami Beach, FL 33139
phone: 305-673-1010

Straightforward yet sophisticated Italian fare is featured on Chef Sergio Sigala’s ever-evolving menu at Casa Tua. Set in a 1925 Mediterranean-style beach house, this restaurant offers some of the best dining in South Beach, and certainly the finest Italian dining. We can’t get enough of the homemade Tagliolini with Osetra Caviar and Crème Fraiche. The dining room is airy and light; the outdoor garden terrace makes for a lovely evening of al fresco dining.

DOWNTOWN MIAMI

Mosaico
1000 S. Miami Ave.
Miami, FL 33130
phone: 305-371-3473

Located in an old firehouse, Mosaico’s menu is fun and creative, definitely pushing the envelope. Barcelona-born Chef Jordi Vallès is a protégé of Spain’s culinary masterminds, including Pedro Subijana, Juan Mari Arzak, and Ferrán Adrià. Jordi experiments with the latest techniques emerging out of Spain, but he always keeps his focus on taste. Mosaico is for the adventurous spirit; the less daring should try Salero (downstairs from Mosaico) for classic Spanish dishes.

Ola
5061 Biscayne Blvd.
Miami, FL 33137
phone: 305-758-9195

Chef Douglas Rodriguez’s restaurant is synonymous with fun – the place always seems packed, pulsating with beautiful bodies and loud music. Attentive and cordial service is never lacking. For dinner theatre entertainment, try the private dining room connected to the kitchen with an intimate view of the chefs at work. Rodriguez’s Latin dishes are peppered with bright spices and vibrant flavor combos, but overall his menu tends toward the light side - dare we even say low-carb-friendly? While there are myriad healthy options, including a whole section of the menu devoted to ceviche, OLA would not be the same without dessert. Rising Star Pastry Chef Joseluis Flores, a native of Mexico City, is the driving force behind superior sweets, including perfectly balanced flans and bombes.

CORAL GABLES

Cacao
141 Giralda Ave.
Coral Gables, FL 33134
phone: 305-445-1001

Cacao is clearly the restaurant of choice for Miami’s distinguished Latino community and those seeking creative Latin fare. The dining room, with its sleek elegance and appropriately dark wood trimming, is the ideal venue for people-watching. The food is just as worthy of your attention. Chef Edgar Leal and his wife/pastry chef Mariana Montero de Castro serve reinterpreted Venezuelan dishes that are visually striking and palate-pleasing.

Carmen the Restaurant
700 Biltmore Way
Coral Gables, FL 33134
phone: 305-913-1944

Don’t underestimate the talent of the diminutive Chef Carmen Gonzalez, whose eponymous restaurant serves post-New American fare, with a distinct Latino edge drawing from Gonzalez’s Puerto Rican heritage. This intimate and inviting restaurant makes for a delightful meal anytime, but Carmen’s sophisticated fine dining menu also makes it ideal for that special celebratory occasion.

Mundo
325 San Lorenzo Ave., #1325
Coral Gables, FL 33146
phone: 305-442-6787

In 2003 Star Chef Norman Van Aken, a.k.a. the Father of New World Cuisine, opened Mundo, a global bistro. Guests are encouraged to share and taste a variety of small plates, ceviches, and wood-oven pizzas, in addition to more substantial entrees that draw on ingredients from around the world, with a heavy emphasis on Spain and the Caribbean. With its broad and ever-changing menu, this casual spot demands frequent return trips, especially once you clue in to the fact that Pastry Chef Max Santiago, recently named a Rising Star, is serving some of Miami’s finest desserts – never too sweet and always extraordinary to behold.

Norman’s
21 Almeria Ave.
Coral Gables, FL 33146
phone: 305-446-6767

Norman Van Aken may be expanding his culinary empire, but everything is grand at his flagship restaurant, thanks, in large part, to his Chef de Cuisine, and recently named Rising Star, Jeffrey Brana. On the first floor of the subdued, though unpretentious dining room, patrons catch a glimpse of Brana and his sous chef working in the open kitchen. Each dish reflects a delicate balance of contrasting flavors – spicy, sweet, tart, and earthy.

SUNNY ISLES

Timo
17624 Collins Ave
Sunny Isles, FL 33160
phone: 305-936-1008

Slightly off the beaten path in Sunny Isles, Timo takes its name from Chef/owner Tim Andriola, whose sophisticated Italian food is definitely worth going out of your way for. The ambiance is very homey and warm, with an open, wood-burning oven that turns out lovely thin-crust pizzas. Andriola’s homemade pasta is “to die for,” but his meat and fish courses are just as expertly prepared.

Prime 112
112 Ocean Dr
The Browns Hotel, South Beach
Miami Beach, FL 33139
phone: 305-532-8112

Red meat-chic meets SOBE cool at the hottest table in town. Miamians are ga-ga for Prime 112’s oversized portions and customized meals (guests can choose their steak, sauce and side) – not since the South Beach Diet have they been this excited. If you manage to secure a reservation, sit near the kitchen where you can catch a glimpse of Chef Mike Sabin (also of Nemo) putting the finishing touches on some of the non-steak specialties, such as a melt-in-your mouth tuna tartar and a surprisingly meaty Wild King Salmon. Carb lovers delight in eight different potato sides or other “accessories” such as crispy hash browns or a creamy corn soufflé with a hint of truffle. Seal the deal with decadent bananas foster or a simple plate of chocolate chip cookies and milk.

CHEFS RECOMMEND
Where do Miami's talented chefs go when they have the night off or are craving a late-night bite after work?

Graziano’s
9227 Southwest 40th St.
Miami, FL 33165
phone: 305-225-0008

Chef Jeffrey Brana of Norman’s prefers this Argentinean steakhouse that boasts an extensive selection of rare imported wines.

HOTELS
Wallet-Watching:

Abbey Hotel
300 21st Street at Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139
phone: 305-531-0033

This boutique art deco hotel offers a great value for visitors to South Beach. The hotel is slightly off the beaten path, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Ocean Drive. The hotel’s extensive restoration took place about 5 years ago - rooms and hallways are beginning to show some wear, but they’re clean and the price is right. No matter where the nighttime takes you, start things off with a genteel cocktail at the handsome art deco bar in the lobby. Also nestled in the hotel lobby is the Abbey Dining Room, where Chef Kira Volz creates simple, light Mediterranean & Middle Eastern cuisine, such as Lamb Tajine for Two, Butternut Squash Ravioli, and Grilled Baby Octopus Salad. If you choose, dine al fresco on the breezy terrace overlooking Collins Park. If you’re recovering from a night of revelry, Chef Volz’s fresh salads and egg dishes will cure your hangover quickly enough.

The Wave
350 Ocean Dr.
Miami Beach, FL 33139
phone: 305-673-0401

Formerly known as The Lord Balfour, this 1940s historic Art Deco building was recently renovated and thoroughly modernized from the inside and out. Sleek and curvy Italian furniture carries out the hotel’s theme. Its prime alternative location in the South Art Deco District - and just across the street from the ocean - offers convenient access to restaurants, shops and the beach. A fantastic value for South Beach.

The Whitelaw
808 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL. 33139
phone: 305-398-7000

The Whitelaw’s slogan reads, "Clean sheets, hot water, stiff drinks." The hotel boasts Belgian sheets, glass and limestone bathrooms, plus complimentary drinks served nightly from 7-8 pm. With its stark white décor and black accents, the hotel aims for a groovy, retro-chic crowd.

Pricey but Sane:

Loews Miami Beach Hotel
1601 Collins Ave
Miami Beach, FL 33139
phone: 305-604-1601

Amid the rows of small boutique Art Deco hotels stands the Loews Miami Beach, a majestic, full-service hotel on South Beach. The Loews is the first new hotel on Miami Beach in 30 years. It has set its own standard of excellence in service throughout the property – from the six restaurants and lounges to the gorgeous ocean-front swimming pool, to the spa and fitness center. Should you ever grow weary of the cascading water fountain and lush palm tree promenade or the gracious poolside service, you have your own private access to a 900-foot-wide sandy beach.

The National
1677 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139
phone: 305-532-2311

The National is one of the best kept secret places to stay on the beach. The cool, art deco bar, with its inviting, quintessential South Beach air, is one of the hippest lounges in town. The deck around the swimming pool reaches a critical mass of hotties each day, but the scene is much lower key than at the Ritz or the Delano. The light, airy, newly renovated rooms are some of the best we experienced on South Beach. The suites are ideal for families, with kitchen/breakfast nook and sitting area, plus a spacious bedroom and bathroom, not to mention ample closet space. The outdoor terrace is the spot for lunch, with a fantastic view of the long and narrow infinity pool. Chef Frederic Delaire serves French fusion at the hotel’s restaurant, named Tamara after art deco artist Tamara de Lempicka. Recommended dishes include the Smoked Duck Tart, Filet Mignon Au Gratin, and Frozen White Chocolate Mousse with Mixed Berries.

Splurge-Worthy:

The Raleigh
1775 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach, FL 33139
phone: 305-534-1775

Designed by L. Murray Dixon, one of the noted architects of South Beach’s historic Art Deco district, the Raleigh is today owned by the notorious hotelier Andre Balazs and is one of the see-and-be-seen hotels on the beach. The lagoon-sized swimming pool is the focal point of the hotel (architecturally and socially), with cascading waterfalls and coveted cabanas. Eric Ripert, Chef/Owner of Le Bernardin in New York, oversees the hotel restaurant’s gourmet menu.

Ritz-Carlton South Beach
1 Lincoln Road
Miami Beach, FL 33139
Phone: 786-276-4000

As the newest Ritz property in the Miami area, this elegant hotel is centrally located on South Beach in the heart of the Art Deco district. The new Ritz SoBe reflects a painstaking restoration of a 1950’s era Morris Lapidus-designed hotel, at least the public areas. The smallish rooms have a more traditional Ritz-Carlton air with classic dark wood furniture and oversized armchairs. The pool is the new people watching scene on South Beach – it’s packed every day with beautiful bods. The drinks served poolside are equally luscious and appealing.

Ritz-Carlton Coconut Grove
3300 Southwest 27th Ave.
Coconut Grove, FL 33133
phone: 305-644-4680

This grand hotel, with its Italian Renaissance décor, has an altogether different feeling from the Ritz-Carlton South Beach. Located on Biscayne Bay, the Coconut Grove property is removed from the hubbub of Miami Beach, making it an ideal venue for a wedding or high-end meeting or conference. You’ll experience exceptional service throughout the hotel, including at the boutique spa and ample outdoor pool. Each of the guest rooms and suites has a private balcony and floor to ceiling windows affording views of Biscayne Bay and the Miami skyline. Bizcaya, the hotel’s fine dining restaurant, was one of the best restaurants in town when Chef Willis Loughhead manned the kitchen, but as of publication, StarChefs has yet to taste Chef Alfredo Patino’s new menu.