New Zealand Travel Guide: Where to Eat, Drink, Stay, and Play
by Katherine Martinelli and Francoise Villeneuve with Antoinette Bruno |
 photos by Antoinette Bruno |
May 2010
Between the plentiful, product-driven cuisine and the extreme sports, New Zealand is the ideal vacation destination for an adrenaline-seeking culinary pro. With such an abundance of extraordinary local produce, fish, protein, and wine it’s no surprise that the culinary scene in New Zealand is thriving. Chefs are taking full advantage of the natural bounty to create sophisticated dishes that highlight all the remarkable ingredients they have to work with.
Sustainability is deeply engrained in the culinary culture of New Zealand. From eco-conscious and antibiotic-free New Zealand King Salmon farms to ethically raised deer (not to mention the pristine produce), New Zealand chefs understand that sustainable products just taste better. And this is evident in their elegant, ingredient-driven cuisine.
As one of the world’s most vibrant New World wine regions, a visit to New Zealand wouldn’t be complete without visits to some of the area’s great wineries. Many of the wineries in New Zealand conveniently also have excellent restaurants, and the chefs, winemakers, and sommeliers all have a deep-rooted understanding of terroir and dedication to creating memorable food and wine pairings.
Besides beyond a culinary playground, New Zealand doubles as an adventure-lover’s paradise. From bungee jumping to horseback riding, and from zip lining to sea kayaking, there is an activity for every whim. New Zealand may be across the world (depending on where home is), but it’s worth the trip for the food, the wine, and the adventure.
Auckland, Hawkes Bay,
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Waiheke Island |
Arrowtown, Gibbston,
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Queenstown |
Nelson and Wellington |
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| Auckland |
Nelson and Wellington |
Queenstown |
Taupo |
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| Golden Bay and Montueka |
Hastings and Rotorua |
Queenstown |
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10 Lake Hayes Road, RD1 9371
Queenstown, New Zealand
+64 3 442-0556
Hours: Tues-Sun 11:30am-8pm
This Central Otago winery and restaurant is on the shore of Lake Hayes and nestled at the foot of the mountains, just 10 minutes outside of Queenstown. Chef Jason Innes and Chef de Cuisine Emma Jones’ food is rustic Italian with New Zealand flare—a perfect match for Amisfield’s Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling. A dish of meaty fried salmon with green beans and artichokes hearts is balanced with bright fresh red chilies and paired with their 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. Beyond the seasonal and locally-sourced food, the dining room is modern-rustic and airy with vaulted ceilings; the outdoor patio is an ideal spot to enjoy the food, wine, and scenery.
Recommended Dishes:
Fried Salmon, Green Beans, Artichokes, and Fresh Red Chilies
Panzanella Bread Salad with Tomato, Anchovy, Celery, and Basil |
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99 Boulcott Street
Wellington, New Zealand
+64 4 499-4199
Hours: Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm; 6pm-11pm, Wine Bar: Mon-Sun 12pm-7pm
Chef Rex Morgan’s upscale casual restaurant focuses on clean flavors and seasonality. Previously working culinary marvels at Citron, Morgan went from high-end degustation to approachable bistro fare at Boulcott Street. After just a few months at his new digs, Chef Morgan has created an ingredient-focused menu that shows New Zealand product to its best advantage—as he says “letting the product do the work.”
Recommended Dishes: Northland Snapper, Battered Bluff Oyster, Tuatua Clam, Mash, and Pepper Purée Seared Venison, Porcini Marshmallow, Shitake, and Manis Jus |
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205 Chard Road RD 1
Gibbston, New Zealand
+64 3 442-6110
Hours: By appointment
Conceived in the 1980s, this family-run farm has focused mainly on its Pinot Noir production since 2003. The region's lower altitude produces riper flavors in this varietal, full of vibrant cherry notes, and a velvety texture. Rob Hay, owner of Chard Farm Winery in Central Otago, studied wine-making practices in Germany, before returning to his native New Zealand. He discusses his practices and shows us his recently renovated vineyards of Pinot Noir, minerally Riesling and perfumed Pinot Gris. In 2008, Chard Farms won the New Zealand International Wine Show Bronze Medal.
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33 Sale Street, Freemans Bay
Auckland, New Zealand
+64 9 358-1702
Hours: Lunch Mon-Thurs by Reservation; Fri Walk-In; Dinner Mon-Sat Walk-In; Sun by Reservation; Lounge Thurs-Sat 9pm-Late
Clooney’s was opened in 2006 in a converted warehouse, and its clean industrial architecture proves to be a suitable backdrop for Chef Des Harris’s effortlessly elegant New Zealand cuisine, with posh touches. Luxurious venison with preserved cherries showcases some of New Zealand’s wealth of product, but also demonstrates serious technique.
Recommended Dishes:
Prime Angus Beef Tenderloin with Onion-Truffle Oil Flan, Pomme Mousseline, Red Wine Sauce, and Cripsy Sweetbreads
Confit Duck Leg with Pedro Ximenez-Soaked Prunes, Parsnip Purée, and Elderflower Jelly |
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42 Shotover Street
Queenstown, New Zealand
+64 3 441-1232
Hours: Mon-Sun 24 hours
A great fix for that burger craving while you’re in New Zealand, this super casual, quirky spot is the Kiwi answer to Shake Shack. The burgers are mammoth-sized and a sure cure for a hangover after a night out in Queenstown (Kiwi's know how to drink!). Patties range from beef to lamb to chicken and tofu. Open around the clock, it makes for a convenient after-hours spot.
Recommended Dishes:
The Fergburger: Beef, Lettuce, Tomato, Red Onion, Aioli, and Tomato Relish
Southern Swine: Beef, Streaky Bacon, Lettuce, Tomato, Red Onion, Aioli, and Tomato Relish
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Museum Hotel
90 Cable Street
Wellington, New Zealand
+64 4 802 8935
Hours: Breakfast Daily; Lunch: Mon-Fri; High Tea: Daily 2pm-4:30pm; Dinner Daily
Located inside Wellington’s slick Museum Hotel, Hippopotamus is headed by Executive Chef Laurent Loudeac, whose updated French technique is applied to the gallicized New Zealand cuisine. We sampled his breakfast menu, but stick around for dinner and you will find selections, such as a boneless rack of New Zealand lamb with Provencal spices, that marry New World ingredients with regional French preparations.
Recommended Dishes:
Oeufs en Cocotte: Baked Eggs with Smoked Salmon, Cream, and Toast Cinnamon Pancakes with Apple-Raisin Compote, Maple Syrup, and Whipped Cream |
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284 Trafalgar Street
Nelson, New Zealand
+64 3 545-7191
Hours: Thurs-Fri 11am-2pm; Mon-Sat 5:30pm-Close
Modern farm-to-table is alive at this small neighborhood restaurant in Nelson, thanks to Chef-owner Kevin Hopgood, who gives the restaurant its name. Indulgent desserts featuring ingredients from the local Founders Park farmers’ market shone and a small but constantly shifting savory menu changes with the season and availability of local produce.
Recommended Dishes:
Buttermilk Panna Cotta with White Peaches and Iced Raspberry Parfait
Vanilla Cheesecake with Poached Plums and Boysenberry Sorbet |
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Hotel De Brett
2 High Street
Auckland, New Zealand
+64 9 925-9000
The avant garde platings, filling and hearty grain salads and upscale modern entrees are not what one would anticipate when dining at a hotel; Kitchen defies expectations at Auckland’s Hotel De Brett. Each of Chef David Verheul’s dishes pairs beautifully with wines from Central Otago, Martinborough and Hawke’s Bay vineyards, which are the focus for the wine list, but a few Old World selections are also available.
Recommended Dishes:
Slow-Cooked Lamb Rump with Goat Curd, Jersey Bennes, Snowpeas, and Chamomile
Gallette of Black Quinoa, Silverbeet, and Feta with Salad of Baby Vegetables, Flowers and Shoots, and Hazelnut
Yuzu Parfait with Honeydew Melon Sorbet, Semi-Dried Blueberries, and Pistachio |
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192 Cuba Street
Wellington, New Zealand
+64 4 801-5114
Hours: By Reservation
Chef Al Brown prepared dishes for us in his home test kitchen, but if his succulent roasted paua and roasted grouper throats are anything to go by, his Logan Brown is well worth the trip while you’re in Wellington. The seared wild hare dish was Brown’s homage to the upcoming autumn season, and the dishes’ gamey and deep flavors captured that crisp fall feeling—like being in a forest. Note: You can catch Chef Brown in his New Zealand show Hunger for the Wild.
Recommended Dishes:
Seared Wild Hare Fillet with Warm Porcini and Pear Salad
Roasted Grouper Throats with Garam Masala Potatoes and Kaffir Lime Sauce |
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Upstairs at the Royal Port Nicholson Yacht Club
103 Oriental Parade
Wellington, New Zealand
+64 4 920-8302
Hours: By Reservation
Produce-driven plates with a seafood emphasis are Chef Martin Bosley’s forte—no small wonder given the restaurant’s perch over the harbor. Bosley began his tenure in the restaurant world at the tender age of nine, and still views New Zealand cuisine with fresh eyes—something he attributes to New Zealand itself being a young country. His cuisine is driven by the seasons and local products, which he marries with subtly modern cooking technique and beautiful plating.
Recommended Dishes:
Trio of Tartare: John Dory, Chilled Crab Bisque, Saffron Milk Water, Red Capsicum Gelée; Queensland Spanner Crab, Wasasbi Sherbet, Pork Crackling; and Tuna, Clam, Soubise Earl Gray Tea Powder
Furred and Feathered: Cocoa-Dusted Venison Short Loin with Mushroom-Thyme Cake, Wild Mushroom Reduction, Beet, Blackberry Powder, Carrot Purée, Smoked Tomato Jam, Suet Pork Pie, Truffled Lentils, Silvebeet, and Roasted Quail |
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365 Dominion Road
Auckland, New Zealand
+64 9 623-3140
Hours: Tues-Sat 6pm-Close; Thurs-Fri Lunch 12pm (Reservations Essential)
A small 40-seat restaurant in the Mt. Eden neighborhood outside of Auckland, Merediths is an upscale departure from the lush, green vineyards and rustic vineyard restaurants so typical of the region. From understated and soft-spoken Chef Michael Meredith himself, to his black and white only art deco dining room and his cuisine, everything at Merediths is the definition of elegance. His dishes are quietly innovative and feature brilliant and unusual flavor combinations, like white chocolate and tomatoes—a preview of the bright future of New Zealand cuisine.
Recommended Dishes:
Eel Two Ways; Smoked and Brandade with Scallops, Cauliflower Purée, Pickled Cauliflower, Jamon, Fresh Tomato, and Basil
Heirloom Tomatoes, Sorrell-White Chocolate Ice Cream, Gooseberries, and Olives
Quail Two Ways: Soy-Marinated Breast and Confit Leg with Dumplings, Swede Purée, Sliced Paua, Edamame, Enoki, Coconut Mousse, and Peanuts |
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Monaco Resort
6 Point Road
Nelson, New Zealand
+64 3 547-0797
Hours: Mon-Sun 7am-10:30am, 5:30pm-11pm (hours vary by season); High Tea Sun 2pm-4pm
Monaco Resort in Nelson is known for Chef Neil Ward’s weekly high tea, served every Sunday afternoon, with six savory or sweet options, such as strawberry Swiss roll, brownie truffles, or scones. Delicate tea sandwiches range from cucumber fingers to smoked salmon and cream cheese. Dinner service at The Orangerie veers away from Brit-inspired Commonwealth classics, and more toward French-inflected New Zealand cuisine.
Recommended Dishes:
Pan Seared Prawns with Ciabatta Bruschetta, Smoked Paprika, and Sweet Chili Beurre Blanc
Lamb with Milk and Honey: Marinated Lamb Rack with Kumara, Spinach, Boulangère Potatoes, and Red Wine Reduction
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322 Wakefield Quay
Nelson, New Zealand
+64 3 539-1307
Hours: Mon-Fri 11:30am-10pm; Sat-Sun 9am-10pm
Located in the port town of Nelson, Relish is a waterfront restaurant overlooking the harbor. After spending time at vineyards and restaurants in Napier, Auckland and the Marlborough Sounds, Cliffin has turned his attention to quayside dining. His local produce-centric menu marries well with the New Zealand wine list.
Recommended Dishes:
Salt-Crusted Snapper Fillet with Roasted Kumara, Bok Choy, and Green Curry Coconut Cream
Twice Cooked Pork Belly with Fondant Potato, French Beans, Smoked Apple, and Calvados Jus |
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18 Buckingham Street
Arrowtown, New Zealand
+64 3 442-0131
Hours: Daily 12pm-10pm
Chef Peter Gawron and his wife Melanie offer rustically elegant and comforting cuisine, at this small-town upscale casual spot. From the perfectly cooked pheasant prepared with two cooking applications to freshly grilled local seafood, everything is beautifully presented. Chef Gawron takes his inspiration from the wine industry, which he feels provides the backbone in the area for the culinary community.
Recommended Dishes:
Beef Cheeks Braised in Chinese Master Stock and Crisp-Fried, Cauliflower-Apple Purée, and Curry Oil
Central Otago Pheasant Cooked Two Ways: Breast with Porcini Mushrooms and Hazelnut; and Braised Leg En Croute with Wild Mushrooms and Sautéed Grapes
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253 Waimarama Road
Havelock North 4230
Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
+64 6 873-7126
Hours: By Reservation
Set in a valley at the base of a mountain range, this picturesque winery and restaurant is hard to leave. It features sophisticated, technique-driven cuisine courtesy of Chef Leyton Ashley. Sommelier Mike Bancks expertly pairs Craggy Range wines with the winery’s restaurant Terroir to intoxicating effect that intrigues the mind as well as the palate.
Recommended Dishes:
Firstlight Venison Carpaccio with Walnuts and Juniper
Rose Veal, Soubise, Crumbled Veal Sweetbreads and Crab Apple Jelly |
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218 Te Whau Drive
Waiheke Island, New Zealand
+64 9 372-7191
Hours: Tasting Room and Restaurant Fri-Sun 11am-4:30pm; Sat 6:30pm-Close
Chef Marco Edwardes at Te Whau vineyard complimented a bottle of the vineyard’s minerally “The Point” with tender grilled beef when we visited him, emphasizing the wine’s clay and damp earth notes, and celebrating its sense of terroir. The vineyard restaurant serves New Zealand cuisine paired with Te Whau’s Burgundy-style Chardonnays and wild yeast fermented reds, in addition to regional New Zealand picks and classic French Champagne, all while overlooking Waiheke Island and Rangitoto.
Recommended Dishes:
Twice-Cooked Duck with Spicy Oxtail Dumplings, Bok Choy, Shiitake Mushrooms, Cashews, and Duck and Mandarin Jus
Seared Venison Carpaccio with Honey and Rosemary Vinaigrette, Porcini Panna Cotta, Red Pepper Coulis, Micro Cress, Shaved Parmesan, and Beet Root |
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23 MacKinnon Terrace
Queenstown, New Zealand
+64 3 409-0588
Rooms start at $642 US
Private lodges of beechwood and stone overlook the mountains as the sun rises at this Queenstown retreat, making for a serene and restful stay at this spa-like resort. Relax by the fire in your modern room, or explore the local wild-life with a hike or horseback ride. A helicopter tour of the area can even be arranged by Azur upon request.
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2 High Street
Auckland, New Zealand
+64 9 925-9000
Rooms start at $207 US
With under 30 rooms, Hotel De Brett offers a more boutique feel than some of Auckland’s larger hotels. It has the advantage of being centrally located near the city’s Ferry Building and Sky Tower, and a library/drawing room is available for you to unwind and read at the end of the day. Kitchen is particularly well-appointed for a hotel restaurant, should you find yourself not in the mood to venture outside this urban retreat.
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243 Lake Terrace
Taupo, New Zealand
+64 7 376-1692
Rooms start at $200 US
On the edge of Lake Taupo, you will find Millenium Resort, with a stunning view of the Central Plateau Mountains. With facilities like a tennis court, gymnasium, heated swimming pool, and sauna, it makes a comfortable choice for both active visitors and families.
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6 Point Road
Nelson, New Zealand
+64 3 547-0797
Rooms start at $85 US
This idyllic and laid back Nelson resort located on the Monaco peninsula appears from a distance to float on the surface of the water. The rooms inside each brick cottage have a homey English countryside feel, with their rose paintings, wooden beams and rustic furniture and the whole complex mimics a village, complete with stream and village green. The Kiwi-French restaurant The Orangerie makes for a comfortable spot for afternoon tea, should you feel the need to stay within the Brit theme during your stay.
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90 Cable Street
Wellington, New Zealand
+64 4 802-8900
Rooms start at $141 US
Museum Hotel in central Wellington flanks the city’s harbor and New Zealand’s national museum, Te Papa. Rooms are comfortably modern, with rich chocolate browns and bronze color schemes. Some are available with an attached kitchenette so you can prepare yourself a morning cup of coffee or tea without leaving your room. In-room washer-dryers, a 42-inch TV screen, and high-speed internet access are among the other touches that makes the hotel a user-friendly option. The recently rennovated Hippopotamus restaurant serves very competent French-Kiwi cuisine under the direction of Executive Chef Laurent Loudeac.
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Kawarau Bungy Centre
State Highway 6, Gibbston Valley
Queenstown, New Zealand
+64 3 442 4007
Prices start at $86
With six AJ Hackett sites in Queenstown, you can admire some of the best available views of the city before slicing through the air for the ultimate adrenaline rush.
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McCallums Road, Anatoki Valley
Golden Bay, New Zealand
+64 3 525-7251
Free entrance, pay per fish caught
If you are planning on visiting New Zealand with your brood, Anatoki Salmon is a small freshwater salmon farm that doubles as a family fishing experience on the banks of the Anatoki River. Once you secure your catch, free cleaning and hot-smoking are available.
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PO Box 2093 Stortford Lodge
Hastings, New Zealand
+64 6 878 2712
Firstlight is a venison and wagyu beef producer whose collection of 35 farms may be open to visitors upon request. Our visit to Firstlight’s Hastings farm from the back of a pick-up truck was an eye-opener. |
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506 High Street
Motueka, New Zealand
+64 3 528 7251
Prices start at $130 US per person
Abel Tasman National Park, the smallest of the country’s national parks, is a scenic option for your first kayaking trip, or you may choose to rent kayaking equipment and venture out on your own if you are a more seasoned sportsman. |
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201 Waiotapu Loop Road, RD 3
Rotorua, New Zealand
+64 7 366 6333
Prices start at $150 per person
Learn about Rotorua's natural geothermal features, as well as the local flora and fauna guided by a local naturalist. |
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