Coloradito

Rinse the chiles under cold running water and shake off the excess moisture, but do not dry them.

Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. A few at a time, place the chiles on the griddle and let them heat, turning occasionally with tongs, just until any clinging moisture is evaporated and the aroma is released. Allow between 30 seconds for the anchos, slightly less for guajillos. The chiles should just become dry, hot and fragrant; do not allow them to start really roasting. Remove from the griddle and place in a bowl as they are done, covering generously with boiling water. Let soak for at least 20 minutes.

Grate the chocolate coarsely on a straight-sided grater, or chop into small pieces. Set aside.

Place the sesame seeds in a small heavy skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly shaking the skillet, just until you see them starting to turn golden brown. Scrape the seeds out into a small bowl and set aside.

Crush the bread to fine crumbs or grind in a food processor. You should have about 1 cup. Set aside.

Grind the canela, cloves and peppercorns together in an electric coffee or spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Set aside.

Drain the soaked chiles and reserve. In a medium skillet, heat half the lard over medium heat until rippling. Add the ground spices and cook, stirring, just until fragrant, 1-2 minutes. Add the onion, garlic, tomato, plantain, thyme, oregano, sesame seeds, raisins and almonds. Cook, uncovered, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. Let the cooked mixture cool for 10 minutes, and then place half the mixture in a blender with 1 cup chicken stock and half the drained chiles. Process to a smooth purée, about 3 minutes on high. Repeat with the remaining sauce mixture, another cup chicken stock, and the remaining chiles.

In a large Dutch oven or deep skillet, heat the remaining lard over medium-high heat until rippling. Add the puréed mixture, stirring well to prevent splattering. Stir in the remaining stock, a little at a time. Cook, covered, for 15-20 minutes, stirring frequently, until the chiles lose the raw edge of their flavor. Stir in the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is lightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the chocolate and cook, stirring constantly, until it is well dissolved. Add the salt. Stir in the shredded meat; cook, partly covered, stirring occasionally, just until heated through, about 7-10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add another pinch or two of salt if desired. Serve immediately.