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| February 2003 |
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BOSTON |
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Front-row eats. Steve DiFillippo has opened a new Davios
on Arlington Street in the former home of Paine Furniture
Co. The new restaurant is big, bright, and sexy in the manner
of Grill 23 but with an Italian lilt. You can eat at the pizza
bar and watch the open kitchen. Co-executive chefs Eric Swartz
and Stephen Brown control the kitchen, but DiFillippo is everywhere
at once, greeting guests and busing tables when the service
takes a beat too long |
Pierre Sosnitsky, who accommodated the power elite at Sans
Souci in Washington, D.C., for many years, is the new maître
d at the Café at Maison Robert. You may recognize
him from his most recent stint at Locke-Ober, where he orchestrated
the front of the house at the behest of his old friend Jacky
Robert |
The Vault owner, Brian ONeill, now has a co-owner/chef
who may be his perfect business partner, Carmen Quagliata
(ex-Tra Vigne in the Napa Valley) |
Stars on Huntington has undergone a makeover, with new decor
and a menu featuring low-priced comfort food favorites.
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CHICAGO |
| TRU Breaks New Ground with Artist
Series Featuring Peter Halley. Renowned Artist and Yale University
Art Lecturer Joins TRU’s Culinary Team, in Partnership
with Alan Koppel Gallery, for an Inspiring Dinner Exploring
the Taste and Texture of Color. Executive Chef/Partner Rick
Tramonto and Executive Pastry Chef/Partner Gale Gand, in partnership
with acclaimed art dealer Alan Koppel, are teaming up with
renowned artist and Yale University lecturer Peter Halley
for the inaugural TRU Artist Dinner Series on Tuesday, March
11. The Peter Halley Dinner is based on the concept of synesthesia,
a phenomenon in which one type of stimulation evokes another.
As such, chefs Tramonto and Gand will create a seven-course
dinner that explores their reactions to the emotions and textures
of color through their medium of choice: food. For example,
the yellow course may have some visual components that are
yellow, but more-so it will have flavors, textures and aromas
that taste, feel and smell yellow. Each of the courses will
be paired with the reproduction of a Halley painting, allowing
guests to see and taste for themselves how Tramonto’s
and Gand’s interpretation of Halley’s work can
be experienced beyond the sense of sight. In addition, wines
will be paired with each course by TRU Sommelier Scott Tyree,
using the synesthesia philosophy. The selected wines will
also inspire the emotion of the color of each course through
the flavor, aroma and “mouthfeel” of each vintage.
The dinner will begin at 6:30 p.m. with a Champagne reception
where guests can mingle with Peter Halley, chefs Rick Tramonto
and Gale Gand and TRU Art Collection Curator and Chicago art
dealer Alan Koppel. The Alan Koppel Gallery is the source
of each of the pieces in TRU’s collection. Each piece
is carefully selected with a keen eye towards aesthetics and
historical artistic significance. During a pre-dinner tour
of the art collection and the TRU kitchen, guests will enjoy
“little bites of color” to whet their appetite.
Following a brief discussion by Peter Halley about the concept
of synesthesia and how this came together in the menu, Tramonto
and Gand will unveil their culinary “masterpieces”
one course at a time. Halley will actually be involved with
the plate presentation of each course using a food ‘paint’
such as an intense carrot reduction for orange where he will
brush stroke each plate before Tramonto and Gand finish plating
their dish. The chefs will team with Halley to discuss the
inspiration behind each course and provide details about the
ingredients, preparation and presentation. Contact: Jamie
Estes, FSA Public Relations, (502) 583-3783, jestes@hqtrs.com
|
Hot spot. “Everybody who eats here wants to go home and have
sex,” says restaurateur Jerry Kleiner of his latest creation,
Opera, in the South Loop. Maybe it’s the herbs in the upscale
Chinese menu, or maybe it’s the hand-painted erotic art, velvet
drapes, or sultry Chinese pin-up girls that turn people on.
Kleiner (Red Light, Marche, Gioco) recommends that lovers
reserve one of the restaurant’s private dining nooks, in former
storage vaults. The menu was designed by Paul Wildemuth (chef/partner
at Red Light) and Arun Sampanthavivat (Arun’s) |
Calling her new eatery “an ode to New England cuisine,” chef/owner
Sharon Cohen christened the place Glory. Located in one of
Chicago’s classic old bungalows, the Bucktown restaurant offers
everything from beer-battered fish ’n’ chips to a clambake
of lobster, cod, clams, mussels, sausage, and potatoes. And
for a sweet taste of New England, Cohen offers Boston cream
pie, maple sugar tart, and pandowdy-of-the-day |
Avec, a casual wine bar, is slated to open in the spring next
to Blackbird restaurant on West Randolph. The principals are
the Blackbird team of chef Paul Kahan, general manager Donald
Madia, and wine steward Eduard Seitan. Koren Grieveson, former
Blackbird sous-chef, is chef de cuisine. Her menu, developed
with Kahan, will focus on traditional dishes from the wine-growing
regions of France, Spain, Portugal, and Italy |
Mark Mendez has replaced David Shea as chef at Twelve 12.
Mendez, formerly the sous-chef, brings a more Latin influence
to the menu |
Southern comfort food just didn’t pan out at Creole, and the
restaurant has closed |
The new executive chef at Lawry’s the Prime Rib is Patrick
Stewart, formerly of the Walnut Room.
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HOUSTON |
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Next spring, the catering firm A Fare Extraordinaire will
open the 75-seat Cafe Extraordinaire in the Tanglewood location
that was Jags. Louis Cressy (ex-Bistro Lancaster) is executive
chef |
Chef/owner Jonathan Jones and Matthew McLaughlin have closed
Cafe Chiasso |
Pei Wei Asian Diner is set to open on Buffalo Speedway at
Westpark. Its a conceptual cousin to P.F. Changs
China Bistro, with counter service and an under-$10 menu |
Tony Mandolas plans for his new spot between Eatzis
and Cafe Annie are nearly complete. Blue Plate Bistro should
be open some time this month. Charles Clark of Ibiza is consulting
chef |
Executive chef Tommy Childs has left Bistro Lancaster and
joined Benjys in the Village, replacing Stephen Milstein.
Steven Murray now runs the Lancaster kitchen |
Ray Brum has moved to the St. Regis Hotel |
Gary Marrero has joined Landrys Restaurants as catering
director and will concentrate on Landrys three soon-to-be-unveiled
downtown ventures: Downtown Aquarium (early 2003), Inn at
the Ballpark (fall 2003), and The Steakhouse (fall 2003).
Marrero most recently was director of catering and convention
services at the Hyatt Regency Houston | André Ledoux
has taken over as executive chef at La Réserve at the
Omni |
Doug Pollard (ex-Damians, State Grille) is executive
chef at the newly revamped Hotel Derek, replacing Alena Pyles.
Also new to the hotel is the Maverick restaurant and its chef,
Robert Hicks |
The recent 18th Annual Caesar Salad Competition attracted
more than 250 attendees, who voted for their favorites. The
winner for the most creative (yeah, well say) Caesar
salad was Brazos executive chef Frederick Brown, who tossed
together a salad that included sun-dried cherries, plaintain
croutons, mango relish, and an ancho-honey dressing.
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LONDON |
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Couture cuisine. Sketch has finally opened on Conduit Street
in Mayfair. Spread across two huge floors of a stunningly
converted Christian Dior showroom off Regent Street, this
new venture from Momos legendary owner, Mourad Mazouz,
has two dining rooms, both overseen by Parisian chef Pierre
Gagnaire: the beautifully decorated Lecture Room serving French
cuisine at stratospheric prices (THE most expensive restaurant
in London now), and the hip, music-playing Gallery offering
a menu of mezze. Theres also all-day pâtisserie
The Parlour and two chic bars |
Also blending food and fashion is 202 in the new Nicole Farhi
shop at 202 Westbourne Grove in Notting Hill, where a cafe
menu of healthy American/ Modern European fare is paired with
Farhis home furnishings for sale |
The Grill Room in the opulently decorated Café Royal
has reopened after a long closure |
Zen Sartori has opened in Hoxtons Asian and Oriental
School of Catering |
Thierry Tomasin, former head sommelier at Le Gavroche, is
the new manager at Aubergine |
Jean-Christophe Novelli has become chef/owner at Auberge du
Lac at Brocket Hall in the country; his Maison Novelli restaurant
is now closed. A new branch of Chez Max took over the Maison
Novelli space |
There is a new branch of Giraffe on Kensington High Street
|
Motcombs new chef is New Zealander Aaron Stott (ex-Vong),
and the new menu is modern European |
The classic Jermyn Street restaurant Wiltons reopens
this month after a much-needed renovation |
The Japanese restaurant Saga has closed and will reopen as
Khew. The kitchen will be led by ex-Nobu chef Paul Day |
Creelers has closed.
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LOS ANGELES |
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Rillettes and renown. Chef/partners Suzanne Goin and Caroline
Styne (Lucques) have opened A.O.C. (for Appellation dOrigine
Controlée) on West Hollywoods 3rd Street with
a full-service restaurant, a wine bar serving 50 wines by
the glass, an in-house charcuterie menu and a huge selection
of cheeses. Chef Julie Robles moved over from Lucques, where
Robert Chalmers moved up to take the helm |
Celestino Drago has moved into the bakery business with Celestino
Bakery, the former Buona Forchetta facility in Culver City.
Drago will supply his own restaurants (Drago, Celestino Italian
Steakhouse, Il Pastaio) as well as wholesale and retail customers.
Among the regional breads are Sicilian semolina bread with
sesame seeds, paper-thin carta da musica, and his signature
garlic pagnotta with glazed vinegar |
Edendale Grill, housed in a landmark fire station in Silver
Lake, offers Patti Pecks (ex-Millies) upscale
variations on comfort food. Her partner is front-of-the-house
maven Melanie Tusquellas, scion of the famous Original Farmers
Market meat, fish, and donut stand family, whose father, Bob,
did the wine list |
Mexico Cityborn restaurateur Jimmy Shaw has opened ¡Lotería!
Grill in the Original Farmers Market, inspired by a
famous Mexican game. The food is basic but authentic Mexico
City street food, including spectacular mole poblano sauces
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Gabriel Morales, who opened the hot steakhouse Balboa, has
now created his idea of Bliss on La Cienega, which is, as
you might expect, a carnivores delight. Notable are
the veal porterhouse and the vegan-friendly fire-roasted eggplant
parmesan |
Noel Turner is a native Kiwi and third-generation fine-food
purveyor with a fierce dedication to all-natural hormone-
and antibiotic-free beef, venison, lamb, fish, and shellfish.
Now Turner has opened a fine-dining restaurant, Turner New
Zealand, near South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa. Chef Louie
Moya is a mainstay from the sites former occupant, Lugano
Cucina |
Mario Perez of the now-closed Café Mélisse in
Valencia is the new chef at Zax. A mentee of Josiah
Citrin, Perez replaces opening chef Brooke Williamson at the
Brentwood establishment.
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NEW ORLEANS |
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Big Easy good-bye. James Overbaugh is leaving The Grill Room
of the Windsor Court Hotel for Boston and the opportunity
to open his own restaurant there. Hes just one of many
chefs to have branched out from this five-star establishment.
Some of the others are René Bajeux of René Bistrot,
John Besh of August, and Bingo Starr of Cuvee |
The Smith & Wollensky Grill, the casual half of the Smith
& Wollensky steakhouse, became a casualty of September
11 fallout. Its now been given another chance as Doc
Smiths Lounge, with drinks for the sports-minded and
Cajun tapas by David Bruce, such as barbecue shrimp beignets
and muffaletta pizza |
New Orleans native Steve Manning has returned to the fold.
Manning, who left town in the mid- 90s to open the Creole
restaurant Bayou in Harlem, is back as consulting chef at
Clancys |
John Harris is all aglow! After being featured on a recent
cover of Food & Wine magazine, the demand for tables at
his tiny restaurant, Lilette, was so astonishing that he closed
for two weeks and added 30 seats |
While Creole cuisine dominates the Big Easy, other chefs continue
to influence the restaurant scene, as demonstrated by the
opening of Salt n Pepper on North Peter Street.
The citys first-ever Pakistani establishment is owned
by Tanvir Inam.
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NEW YORK |
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Changing of the guardia. Nuevo Latino chef Doug Rodriguez
has left his post as chef of Pico and Chicama. He continues
his association with Alma de Cuba in Philadelphia and Deseo
at The Westin Kierland Resort & Spa in Scottsdale, Arizona
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After more than a decade, Don Pintabona is no longer at Tribeca
Grill. He left to pursue other projects. The new chef is Stephen
Lewandowski, who had been the chef de cuisine |
Michel Nischan, once the heart of Heartbeat at the W Hotel
in Midtown, has also moved on |
Village vegetarians have a new dining option in Gobo, recently
opened by brothers Darren and David Wu. (The boys parents,
incidentally, opened Zen Palate.) No clunky dishware or spider
plants in macramé hangers at this veggie hangoutGobo
is sleek and modern. The menu goes beyond Asian fare with
dishes like pappardelle in a meatless Bolognese |
Remedy Restaurant and Lounge has been transformed into Anju.
The name means small plates in Korean, and the
Korean-fusion menu, created by Claude Chassagne, is comprised
of small plates like sesame-glazed baby bok choy and larger
ones like seaweed-crusted rack of lamb. Owner Jay Hwang has
created a list of customized house sakes, like Tibet tiger
sake (a blend of sake, Tibetan tiger tea, caramel, chocolate,
butterscotch, and vanilla) to be enjoyed in Anjus sake
therapy lounge |
Friulian native Emanuele Simeoni is opening Barbalùc,
a restaurant specializing in the food of his home region,
on the Upper East Side this month. The chef, Christian Fantoni,
previously worked at Le Cirque 2000 |
Peter Hoffman, chef/owner of Soho mainstay Savoy, has redecorated
and, at the same time, added an all-day, moderately priced
cafe menu. Larry Bogdanow, who designed the original restaurant
nearly two decades ago, has added full-length windows and
modern touches |
Fans of Gnocco in the East Village can now find similarly
lusty Italian fare a few blocks south at the new Perbacco,
the latest venture from Gnocco owner Pierluigi Palazzo |
East is East. East Villagers will also be feasting on the
food of Michael Huynh at his chic, new Vietnamese spot, Sen.
Try dishes like yam soup studded with tiger shrimp, whole
red snapper, and prawns with a bouillabaisse sauce. Pastry
consultant Eric Hubert, who once prepared the sweet stuff
at Jean Georges, is making the desserts |
Roti riche. At the new Sugarcane on the outskirts of Park
Slope, Brooklyn, Charmaine Gumbs offers Caribbean fare in
upscale surroundings. The restaurant serves traditional foods
from the Caribbean, such as chicken stew with rum, soursop
flan, andof courseroti |
Chelseas Markt has a new executive chef. Pierre Pluymers
hails from Antwerp, where he apprenticed at the Michelin-rated
tFornuis |
The Midtown space that once held Artusi is now Acqua Pazza,
an Italian seafood restaurant opened by Arturo Arpaia.
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PHILADELPHIA |
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Ah, Capella. Robert Capella (ex-Four Seasons and Westin Hotels)
is now working his modern European magic at Monte Carlo Living
Room, where hes turning out creations that may look
spare but that taste lush. Nunzio Patruno, the soft-spoken
former chef of Monte Carlo Living Room who let his food do
the talking, is opening a new restaurant across from the landmark
Drake building on Spruce Street |
David Boyle, former exec chef at Jakes, has taken over
the reins at Davios, the upscale Italian steakhouse.
He replaces Shawn Sullsberger, who left to open his own restaurant
|
Royal Tavern and Low, bars with real food, have opened in
South Philly |
The Bamboo Club (eighth in a chain) has opened, serving pan-Asian
food to an overflow crowd in the King of Prussia Mall |
Waldorf Cafe closed, and Bella opened in the same 20th and
Lombard spot, retooling the restaurant food from French to
modern Hamptons. Debra Deaner and Lorrie Thiel,
both alumnae of Striped Bass, are the chefs |
Manayunks long-standing Sonoma has changed its menu
to all-organic. Chef/owner Derek Davis says the philosophy
extends to the wine list, which features organic and biodynamic
wines produced by Mondavi and Arrow.
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PITTSBURGH |
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New colony. Under new ownership and after a years renovation,
the landmark Scott steakhouse The Colony has reopened. Executive
chef Michael Lee (ex-Le Mont) has kept the traditional steak-and-potatoes
menu, but added Continental dishes |
Two new Mexican restaurants join the scene: Ole Ole in the
North Hills (with Southwestern/ Mexican standards and funky
margaritas), and Cabo Mexican Grill in the Homestead Waterfront
by Chicago-based Restaurant Development Group |
Frescas replaces Max Planks in Wexford. Under the same ownership,
the new kitchen offers rustic European cuisine
and a wine bar |
Thai-Me-Down is the first Thai restaurant on the South Side
|
Romantic Hyeholde in Moon Township now offers upscale takeout,
including its signature sherry bisque |
Hes gone. Seth Tricher (ex-Lidias Pittsburgh)
had a short tenure at the fledgling La Strada. The Italian-born
Mino Fazio now rules that kitchen |
Eric Wallace is the new chef at Kaya, a Caribbean/Spanish
fusion restaurant with Asian touches that specializes in tropas
(small plates). Kevin Sousa is sous-chef |
Steve Thompson and Neal Huchingson step up to lead the contemporary
Italian Lucca. Former executive chef Douglass Dick is on a
European sabbatical.
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SAN DIEGO |
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Victor Jimenez is the new chef at Gringos Cocina &
Cantina in Pacific Beach. Jimenez, who formerly worked under
Bernard Guillas at La Jollas Marine Room, came to his
new digs from Thee Bungalow. The restaurant features modern
Mexican cuisine |
Jason Shaeffer, executive chef of downtowns Laurel Restaurant
& Bar, is now executive chef of the WineSellar & Brasserie
in Sorrento Valley. Both restaurants are owned by local wine
expert Gary Parker |
Roaming chef Riko Bartolome has landed again, this time as
executive chef of the new San Diego W Hotel. He is in charge
of signature restaurant Rice, which serves Asian fusion cuisine,
as well as a roof bar overlooking San Diego Bay that features
a hot sand floor. Bartolome comes to the W from a recent stint
at The Grill at Maderal Golf Club |
La Jollas Nuevo Latino restaurant Tamarindo has reopened
as Fresh, featuring seafood by new executive chef Matt Zappoli,
former executive sous-chef at Aureole in Las Vegas. Owner
Sami Ladekis other restaurants include Roppongi, Prime
10 Steakhouse, and Sammys Woodfired Pizza.
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SAN FRANCISCO |
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Saucy plans. Larry Mindel, a founder and director of the
Il Fornaio restaurant and bakery group and a former dynamo
at Spectrum Foods in its heyday, has got big plans for a restaurant
in Sausalito. The restaurant will be in part of the space
at 801 Bridgeway (near Bay) that once housed the Village Fair
retail complex. Mindels planned bay-view restaurant
will be leased from the Casa Madrona Hotel, which will convert
its Mikayla restaurant to hotel rooms in the next year. Mindel
lives in Sausalito, and this restaurant, still unnamed, is
the culmination of his 30-year love affair with Italian food
and culture |
Jellyfish is the newish restaurant in the Sheraton Petaluma
Hotel. Executive chef Barbara Hom is a longtime Sonoma restaurateur
and caterer whose Santa Rosa restaurant, Fans, closed in 1993
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Local Pasta Pomodoro chain has agreed to sell 25 percent of
the company to Wendys International Inc. for $12 million
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The sudden departure of Redwood Park executive chef George
Morrone is not the end of that story. Owner Charles Condy
also filed Chapter 11 bankruptcy for the restaurant. Condys
restaurants include Aqua, Charles Nob Hill, Pisces in Burlingame,
and the aforementioned Redwood Park. He also has several management
contracts for signature restaurants in Southern California
and Las Vegas. Condy is planning a complicated and creative
financial transaction to finance the rollout of more restaurants
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Nick Peyton and chef Douglas Keane, who left Jardinière
over a year ago to work with Peyton, are poised to open a
neighborhood restaurant on Main Street (near Spring Street)
in St. Helena called Market. The menu will range from five-bean
chili with cheddar-cheese cornbread to home-style classics
like fried chicken, double-cut pork chop, and meatloaf.
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SEATTLE |
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Double threat. Two dining ventures, one owner. Marco Casas
Beaux, an Argentine, grabbed the space in popular Belltown
where The Poor Italian Café had been and named it Buenos
Aires Grill. He then opened Gitano in the Madison Valley space
that previously housed Gypsy. Marianne Zbodysz (ex-Madison
Park Café) is the executive chef of the Grill. Talented
Puerto Rican chef Maritza Texeria will oversee the kitchen
at Gitano. Both menus emphasize the owners Latin American
heritage |
The newly renovated Library Bistro & Bookstore, formally
the Painted Table, opened with a contemporary American menu
by Matt Costello and a retro interior |
Managing owner Kamyar Khoshdel of Vivanda, the Mediter-ranean
dining spot in the Pike Place Market, has hired Peter Levine
as executive chef. Levine has 20 years of experience in restaurants
such as Jean-Louis Palladins Jean-Louis at the Watergate
in Washington, D.C., and Twenty-One Federal Restaurant on
Nantucket |
Sean Quinn is chef of the swanky new El Gaucho in Tacoma.
Owner Paul Mackay spent $1.8 million on the project.
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WASHINGTON D.C. |
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Sensitive sweets. At last, a bakery for non-dairy types who
may or may not like meat. Sticky Fingers Bakery, the areas
first bakery for vegans and those who are lactose intolerant,
has opened in Dupont Circle on 18th Street. Owners Doron Petersan
and Kirsten Rosenberg are vegans who are also sensitive to
the allergy challenged |
Duane Keller is executive chef at Potowmack Landing in Alexandria.
He was most recently at Blue Point Grill, also in Alexandria
|
New Yorkbased Loews Hotels has hired Jeff Tunks (DC
Coast, Ten Penh) to re-energize the dining room at the Jefferson
Hotel downtown |
Old Hickory Grill plans to open in Potomac Woods Place on
Severn Locks Road in Rockville |
Meiwah, a popular West End Chinese restaurant, will open a
second location in Friendship Heights in March.
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OTHER OUTPOSTS |
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Bayville, Long Island
On February 27, chef Joseph Ciminera of The Pine Island Grill
is hosting the second of three Manhattan Guest Chef dinners.
That evening, chef Anthony Cincola and pastry chef Luis Robledo-Richards
of Le Cirque 2000 will be preparing a six-course dinner with
wines, courtesy of Brown-Forman. Some of the proceeds will
benefit The James Beard Foundation. For tickets, call 516.628.3000.
Look for details about the final dinner in the series in our
March Calendar.
Carmel, CA
Master class. This years Masters of Food and Wine at
the Highlands Inn, the 17th annual incarnation of this eating
and drinking extravaganza, is being headlined by a number
of James Beard Awardwinning chefs, including Gary Danko,
Todd English, Bobby Flay, Gale Gand, Eric Ripert, Susan Spicer,
and Sherry Yard. The Park Hyatt property will also welcome
Michael Ginor and Laurent Gras, among many others. To drink
therell be plenty of Château Margaux, Louis Jadot,
Lail, Spottswood, Quintessa, and Veuve Clicquot on hand. The
event runs from February 19 thru 23.
Toronto
Hitting the mark. Mark McEwan (North 44, Terra Restaurant)
has opened Bymark in the Financial District. This is his first
downtown venture, and has given him a booming lunch business.
The two-story room, designed by James Beard Awardwinning
design team Yabu Pushelburg, is nestled in the basement of
the Toronto-Dominion Centre skyscraper.
Celebrating Beards Birthplace
Whether reminiscing about the bustling markets and the chaotic
Chinatown streets of Portland, or daydreaming about the tranquil
forests and expansive coastline of Gearhart, James Beard was
never very far from his beloved home state of Oregon. To honor
his centenary we are inviting a chef from Oregon to cook dinner
at the Beard House once each month this year. As in Beards
time, Oregon has a lively food and restaurant scene. Last
month we welcomed John Newman from Stephanie Inn in Cannon
Beach, Oregon, as the first to cook in our Celebrating Beards
Birthplace series. This month were happy to have Portland
chefs Philippe Boulot from the Heathman Hotel and William
King and Rene van Broekhuizen from McCormick & Schmicks
Seafood Restaurants coming to cook in our kitchen (for details,
see page 15). No doubt youll be able to spot the events
in the Calendar by the huckleberries and wild mushrooms on
the menusor else you can just look for the series. We
hope to see you soon at the Beard House.
^
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