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Wine Tips from Featured Sommelier Allegra Angelo, Michy’s, Miami, FL on StarChefs.com

Featured Sommelier Allegra Angelo of Michy's in Miami, FL

After graduating from Emory University, Allegra Angelo attended CIA and received a culinary degree. Following her passion, she began working in pastry at Jean Georges Restaurant (in New York) for acclaimed pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini – but soon realized that her true love was wine. Allegra became part of the opening team at Michy's restaurant in Miami, and soon put together a wine list unlike anything the city had seen. With a focus on small producers and grower Champagnes, her list recently got voted “Best Wine List in Miami” by Zagat guide, with a rating of 28 out of 30.

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Q:I recently received my certified certificate from the c.m.s. and moved to Las Vegas from the Napa Valley. I worked at the restaurant for several years before going on the floor, and therefore was familiar with the wine list. Now I have my own program in the Venetian, and find it hard to absorb it all so... quickly! My question: is it acceptable to present a wine list to the guest and then use one while table side for making a recommendation until I am confident with my knowledge of the list?

justin teixeira,
las vegas, nv
A:Yes, but be confident about it. Even if you know the list inside and out, sometimes it is helpful to have a copy in your hand in order to show the guest where certain wines are located. At times, it is uncomfortable to reach over a guest and point to certain wines on the list. Having a copy of your list tableside is not a direct indication of what you know and don't know. Sometimes it's fun to have a copy of your list in your hand, I always enjoy reading mine.

--by Allegra Angelo
--Michy's


Q:I have a question about sake. I was recently in a Japanese restaurant where they served sake in a glass inside a box. When pouring, they pour until the glass is full and then overflowing into the box. This is meant to celebrate and perpetuate abundance. I am wondering, what is the proper etiquette for consuming this?
Thanks a lot,

Joel Mikels,
Roseville MN
A:Drinking out of the box, "Masu," can be tricky when the pour is generous, and the sake reaches the rim of the box. Gently lift the cup just enough to displace the level of sake and take a sip from the corner of the box. The person receiving should lift the masu off the table with one hand and support it with the other. After you drink from the masu, you can pour the remaining sake back into glass, and then drink from the glass.

--by Allegra Angelo
--Michy's


Q:I am serving wild salmon with roasted tomatoes drizzled with a lemon-oregano oil. It is a beautiful dish, any suggestions for wine?

Melissa Graney,
Palo Alto
A:For me, roasted tomatoes, fatty salmon, and savory oregano scream medium body Italian red or a lush rose. I would suggest:
1) Rose of nebbiolo by Burlotto from Piedmont 05/06
2) Rose of grenache/cinsault/mourvedre by Chateau Pradeaux from Bandol, Provence 05/06
3) Rosso di Montalcino by Canalicchio di Sopra from Tuscany 03/04
4) Chianti Classico Riserva '01 by Castello di Cacchiano from Tuscany. It's fun to experiment too. If you wanted to try something different, I'd try a Rose champagne/or sparkling. Schramsberg, from California, makes a beautiful vintage sparkling Rose.

--by Allegra Angelo
--Michy's


Q:What are some of the best Zinfindel's in your opinion. What foods to they go best with. I really love them with aged hard cheeses. What to you recommend under $30?

Maryann Watrous,
Shadow Hills
A:My favorite zinfandels are: Chateau Montelena Estate 2004 (has black cherry and a seductive smokiness), Mayacamas Range Estate by Storybrook Mountain (reminds me of tarragon, blackberry, roasted game), and Dutton Goldfield, Dutton Ranch-Morelli Lane, Russian River Valley (clean, brighter red fruit, refined). I prefer these wines with grilled or roasted game meat/fowl, particularly venison, squab, or quail.

--by Allegra Angelo
--Michy's


Q:After much research I am still a bit confused by the terms; appassimento, recioto and passito. Can you differentiate them for me?

Scott,
Chicago
A:Appassimento loosely means "withering." It is a process in which grapes are partially dried before fermentation in order to create a sweet wine or a very dry wine. Grapes are usually laid out on straw or bamboo mats to dry naturally or by means of fans or dehumidifiers. While appassimento is a method of winemaking, passito is a type of wine, referring to "raisin wine." When grapes have gone through an "appassimento" process, they become a "passito." Recioto is a sub-category of passtio; it is a passito wine from the Veneto in Northeastern Italy. The most common forms of Recioto are Recioto della Valpolicella (a sweet red wine) and Recioto di Soave (a sweet white wine).

--by Allegra Angelo
--Michy's


Q:Which foods could you recommend with Moscato d'Asti?
Thank you,

Sue,
Colts Neck, NJ
A:Firstly, I love Moscato d'Asti without any food. Its flavors are delicate, so I'd pair it with something simple, like fresh apricots drizzled with acacia honey, a piece of almond nougat, or freshly spun white peach sorbet.

--by Allegra Angelo
--Michy's


Q:What is the best wine pairing for curry?

miguel,
montevideo
A:Curry is not as tough a pairing as one may think. An issue arises when deciding what application will be applied to the curry. Traditionally it is made of the following components: Cumin, Tumeric, Coriander, Ginger Garlic, Caraway Seed, Cardamom and Red Chile Powder.

First, do not pair dishes with a lot of spice with heavily oaked wine! Spice only accentuates the flavoring and creates a one-dimensional wine. Both spice and wine, with high alcohol content, create heat on the palate and mixing these two variables creates a less than pleasurable experience.

Wines to consider should be unoaked, lower in alcohol and have a fruit forward style. Below are some suggested regions and their grape varieties to possibly pair:
? ALSATIAN: Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris & Pinot Blanc varieties
? LOIRE VALLEY, Vouvray & Savennieres regions: Chenin Blanc variety
? AUSTRALIA, Riverina & Hunter Valley regions: Semillon variety
? AUSTRALIA, Isolation Ridge & Clare Valley regions: Riesling variety
? ITALY, Soave Gargenga region: Trebbiano variety
? ITALY, Friuli region: Tocai Friulano variety
? PORTUGAL, Vinho Verde region: Albarino variety
? SPAIN, Galicia region: Albarino variety

--by William Rhodes
--The Carlyle


Q:I am an avid fan of wine and food pairings, non professional, but still I have fallen in love with the intricacies of wines and how they do their part to maximize a meal's pleasure quotient. My downfall comes from the headaches I often get from drinking wines. I have learned that this comes from the nitrites/nitrates that are often found.

My question is: "What wine do you recommend that are free of these pesky chemicals?"

Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Douglas H. Clayton
Apison, TN

Douglas H. Clayton,
Apison
A:Good question. To the best of my knowledge, there is not one particular compound in wine (both white and red) which causes headaches. Some people suggest it is the agrochemicals used in treating vines, which consequently places blame on the wineries. Others believe the grapes have a naturally occurring chemical, which is released during fermentation, causes the problem.

In my opinion, I think the major factor of headaches are caused from the effect alcohol has on the body. It is, in essence, a poison. When consumed, alcohol dehydrates the body and curtails the amount of oxygen flowing to the brain. Dehydration, combined with a limited supply of oxygen, deprives our brains which in turn causes a headache. A headache is the body's signal it is in need of nutrients. Generally one will take an aspirin to thin the blood and drink plenty of water for hydration. However, a headache from wine is often stronger and last longer due to several compounds. These compounds, which provide a feeling of pleasure during consumption, make it harder for our body to metabolize the alcohol causing it to remain in our system longer and the headache stronger.

A good rule of thumb, and not when just drinking wine, is for each glass of wine you should drink one glass of water. The heavier, more tannic red wine will certainly increase the chances of a headache. White wine is generally a safe bet since it is not treated with skin contact and excessive oak.

It would be great if there were wines not soaked in chemicals, but the reality is that all wine is to a certain extent. I would suggest seeking producers which practice more sustainable agriculture techniques (i.e. organic or biodynamic viticulture). I suggest: Polaner Selections, Louis Dressner, Terry Thiese or
David Bowler.

Always ask you retail sales person or sommelier to help find these wines.

--by William Rhodes
--The Carlyle


Q:What foods/dishes would you suggest for the following: a young, an old Hunter Valley Semillion, an South African Semillion, and a white Bordeaux blend?

Felicity ,
Johannesburg
A:Young and Old Hunter Valley Semillon
Due to these wines having an off, dry profile, the obvious direction is Foie Gras. I would pair the younger, more assertive Semillon with a saut?ed Foie Gras and the older Semillon with the Torchon or Pate of Foie Gras. A nice alternative is a cheese course, like aged sheep's milk or aged goat such as Old Chatham Sheepherding Company Hudson Valley Camembert or Crottin de Chavignol.

South African Semillon
These are unusual wines. They are less reminiscent of the Bordeaux blended styles from Entre deux Mer, but are not as oily and rich as Semillons from Australia and California. Avoid cheese, dessert and savory dishes due to the dry nature of the wine. These wines work best with a delicate white fish, served in a broth with fresh herbs. My suggestion: Black Sea Bass with artichoke, fennel, fingerling potatoes and bouillabaise jus

Bordeaux Blanc
Bordeaux Blanc has two very styles. The first is ?Pessac Leognan? features a rich texture and oaked style. The other, ?Entre Deux Mer?, offers a light and crisp style. My suggestion for ?Pessac Leognan?: Porkloin.with maitakee mushrooms, pancetta, pearl onions and tarragon jus. My suggestion for ?Entre Deux Mer?: Roasted Diver Scallops celeriac remoulade and shaved summer truffle

--by William Rhodes
--The Carlyle

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