The
Wines:
($13)
($13)
($24)
($25)
($35, ½ bottle)
($80)
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By
Jim Clarke
Many wine regions make good vacation
destinations, but only a few speak of summer
and the beach. The best example in the U.S. isn’t even in
California; it’s in New York. Each summer, New Yorkers –
well-heeled New Yorkers, at least – head out to the Hamptons
on Long Island to party and take in the sun. Now that the Cosmo
has receded from popularity a bit, they’ve probably noticed
that there are a number of good wines being made right next door.
And if they haven’t, they should have.
 For
an affordable introduction to Long Island reds, try the Pindar
Vineyards Pythagoras ($13). Despite the Greek name, Pindar,
like many wineries in the Hamptons, often looks to Bordeaux as its
role model; the Pythagoras is a blend of all five classic Bordeaux
varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet, Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot,
and Malbec. But unlike a Bordeaux – unlike most still table
wines – it’s non-vintage. The flexibility afforded by
mixing different vintages and varietals allows Pindar to create
a consistently good-value wine without being too dependent on individual
harvest conditions. Medium-bodied, with a cherry aroma supported
by smooth, earthy tones, the Pythagoras demonstrates why Long Island
wines are worth looking into: well-balanced, food-friendly drinkability.
 If
you prefer to stick with something chilled in the summer heat, look
to Channing Daughters, a
very strong winery in Bridgehampton with a knack for unusual varietals
and blends. The worst thing you can say about their wines is that
they tend to sell out too quickly. Fortunately, their 2004
“Sauvignon” ($24) is still available. Unlike
many American Sauvignon Blanc producers, they look not to France
or New Zealand for inspiration, but rather to northeast Italy’s
so-called “Super-Friulians.” The Channing Daughters
“Sauvignon” sports an uncommon blend: 77% Sauvignon
Blanc and 23% Chardonnay. A complicated regimen of barrel and stainless
steel aging gives it a rich texture without losing a crisp, laserbeam
freshness and focus. Look for layers of spice, minerals, and green
apple as well as some more flamboyant, tropical fruits. It’s
a good accompaniment for goat cheeses and prosciutto, but rich enough
for chicken and fish as well.
One of my favorite dessert wines
is Wölffer Estate’s 2003
Late Harvest Chardonnay ($35 for a half-bottle).
Honestly, I try to avoid outlandish tasting notes, but every vintage
of this wine has given me at least a touch of sweet and sour pork
on the nose. If that sounds implausible, maybe other aromas such
as overripe peaches, honey, and orange-blossom will sound more appealing.
This late-harvest “ice-wine” is a cheater, though: the
grapes do not freeze on the vine as a purist (noses in the air,
please) would demand for ice-wine; instead the winery uses a commercial
freezer to get the same concentration of sugars, acidity, and flavor.
It’s hard to argue with the results.
 If
you prefer to travel to beaches abroad, you can’t ignore Italy;
after all, the country is all coastline. The Lido in Venice offers
sun and sand followed by a nightly retreat to a beautiful urban
setting, even if the beach itself is a bit past its glory days.
The surrounding region’s sparkling wine, Prosecco, on the
other hand, is enjoying an upswing in popularity and quality and
evokes much of the city’s elegant and light-hearted style.
Look for the Nino Franco “Rustico”
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene ($13); one of the best, it offers
aromas of lemon, minerals, and a light touch of spice. Good Prosecco
like this doesn’t try to pass itself off as Champagne; it’s
light-bodied and fun, playing the harlequin instead of the aristocrat.
Getting out of the city, Liguria
– the Italian Riviera – is an Italian resort area that
has held onto its idyllic, jetset lifestyle. While Portofino has
effortless elegance down pat, it’s in the more rustic Cinque
Terre to the east where wine production is more evident; the perplexing
difficulty of harvesting the steep, rocky vineyards makes an impression
on even the most casual observer. The region as a whole may not
be known for its wines, but that’s mainly because most of
it was drank locally instead of being exported. These days Ligurian
wines can be found here in the U.S., especially those made from
local white grapes Pigato or Vermentino. The latter is also grown
in France, neighboring Tuscany, and Sardinia, and makes a light,
crisp, herbal wine, sometimes with a touch of saltiness. Pigato
tends to be similar, but more intense, showing a sharp, bitter almond
character in its finish. The Bisson
Pigato 2004 ($25) captures the focused intensity of the
grape: some citrus fruit, certainly, but lots of fennel, mint, and
minerals as well. It screams for fish, calamari, or the local Genovese
favorite, pesto.
These days,
the Amalfi Coast may be Italy’s most popular destination
for beachgoers; while they bake in the sun, winemakers in the mountains
nearby have resuscitated one of Italy’s greatest red wines:
Aglianico. The grape has been around for a long time; the name is
believed to be derived from “ellenico,” for the Greeks
who historians say introduced it to the area. Winemaking in the
area has made some big steps forward in recent decades, and those
who say that Aglianico deserves a place alongside Sangiovese and
Nebbiolo as one of Italy’s great native varietals have more
and more wines to point to as examples. For a special evening meal,
as breezes cool you off after a perfect day in the sun, the Feudi
di San Gregorio “Serpico” 2001 ($80)
may be the wine that will make it all last forever. Rich and full-bodied,
its dark fruit aromas – boysenberry, licorice – are
rounded out by notes of chocolate, black pepper, and clove. That
may sound heavy, but there’s also some lighter elements adding
further complexity and keeping things fresh, especially raspberry
and some floral touches. If you really want to make the experience
last, buy a case and open a bottle whenever you want to recover
that lost evening; this wine will long outlast the summer heat.
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