Some Thoughts on Serving Sherry
By Jim Clarke
Sherry is an undeservedly neglected variety of wine here
in the U.S., despite the fact that each type of sherry has a distinctive
character: light and delicate Finos and Manzanillas, richer but still
dry Palo Cortados and Olorosos, and the sweet, dark Pedro Ximenez wines.
Sherry has a special production and aging process that opens a door
to a set of flavors that other wines can rarely offer. But while most
people have some idea how to store and serve red and white table wines,
sherry often trips them up. In fact, poor service and storage is one
of the reasons sherry is less popular than it deserves. Here are some
guidelines to help you get the most out of drinking sherry.
Temperature: Finos, and Manzanillas should be served chilled,
as should Amontillados and Palo Cortados, if somewhat less so. Opinion
is divided on Olorosos, and I tend to let the occasion dictate; in warmer
weather I prefer to chill it ever so slightly. Cream sherries are drank
at all sorts of temperatures, even on the rocks with a slice of lemon.
This is in keeping with their commercial character; the more ways that
can be recommended to serve a drink, the more occasions a consumer might
purchase it. If for some reason I have to drink a poor-quality cream
sherry – for politeness’ sake, let’s say – I
try to drink it as cold as possible to mask its flaws as much as possible.
Glasses: Because it is fortified and therefore stronger
than many wines, sherry is usually served in small, tulip-shaped glasses.
The traditional variety is called a copita. However, I must admit that
at home I drink it from a larger Chardonnay glass so I don’t have
to go to the fridge so often.
Storing: Sherry has had all the aging it needs before
it is released. The richer styles will last quite some time in an unopened
bottle, but will not perceptibly improve from the experience. Finos
and Manzanillas are much more delicate and should be drunk as soon as
possible after purchase as they tend to lose their freshness just as
many crisp, light, unfortified white wines do. Some experts even suggest
confirming that your local supplier moves enough sherry to ensure that
the bottles haven’t been sitting around the store too long.
There is a common misperception that sherry, once opened, remains fresh
for quite some time, like some other fortified wines (madeira, for example)
and liquors. This is unfortunately not the case, and another reason
that sherry is not as popular as it deserves to be with Americans is
that they try it at a restaurant that has kept a bottle of Fino sitting
on the bar for several months developing dust on the bottle like a reminder
of the flor that once helped make the wine great. In restaurants it
is definitely important to order sherry at a place that takes wine seriously
and sells a fair amount of sherry. They should keep their finos and
mazanillas chilled and ideally use some sort of vacuum stopper to help
protect the wine once it has been opened.
At home try to finish a bottle of any of the drier sherries within
a few days, and keep the wine refrigerated and stoppered after opening.
Amontillados, Olorosos and Cream sherries will last much longer whether
chilled or otherwise; usually a couple of months or so. This makes them
a safer bet in restaurants that may not sell too much sherry generally.
Pairing Sherry with Food: Anything with nuts in it
probably has a friend in some sort of sherry. Finos and Manzanillas
make great aperitifs, and match perfectly with many tapas and hors-doevres
such as olives, shrimp, nuts, and hard cheeses; light Manzanillas are
also a hit with raw oysters. Amontillados are a little more robust;
I find they’re great with creamy soups like chowders and bisques
and may be the best sherry for main courses like game birds and white
meats generally. Oloroso, Cream, and Pedro Ximenez Sherries can all
work with a variety of desserts, and the latter also complements blue
cheeses like Cabrales or Valdeon very well. A dry Oloroso or even a
Palo Cortado can also suit beef dishes; although they lack tannins that
would cut through fattiness, their inherent intensity often balances
well and the Oloroso’s flavor can add depth to the meat.
Domecq
Lustau
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