Colorado Cuisine: A How-to Guide
Arcana Chef Kyle Mendenhall is building Colorado cuisine at the intersection of heritage, seasonality, relationships, and preservation.
For Chef Kyle Mendenhall it begins with language. “Arcana’s menu is written in English,” he says. “There’s no ricotta on our menu, but there’s whipped buttermilk. There’s no vinaigrette, but there’s dressing. Americans like naming things. We’re good at it.”
Arcana: mysterious or specialized knowledge, language, or information accessible or possessed only by the initiate
Mendenhall is on a mission to drive the national conversation about cuisine, and ultimately to help define it. It says so on his restaurant’s website: “We fully believe that in years to come we will look back at this moment in our history and see it as the renaissance of American identity as it relates to food.”
Language is important in this context because it implies intention. Mendenhall even has a Venn diagram that represents his mission. The use of this visual cue makes sense when you consider he was a classical oboist before becoming a chef. Mendenhall is as used to seeing and reading music as he is to playing and hearing it. The diagram is posted in his kitchen, like sheet music that informs how he and his team create and compose dishes using the overlapping parameters of Heritage, Season/Region, Relationships, and Preservation.
In practical terms, Mendenhall uses his Venn diagram to show how three dishes at Arcana articulate a new, modern, personal take on Colorado cuisine that is “bold, creative, and unflinchingly American.”