Born in Canada to Filipino parents and raised in L.A., Fabro cooked Filipino food as well as Detroit-style pizza at Alvin Cailan’s Unit 120 incubator (now home of Lasa). Just as with Olalia and Valencia, it was the Patina and Water Grill vet’s first time cooking Filipino cuisine for a living. “I’m not refining Filipino food for an American audience. What I create is solely based on my experience as a chef,” says Fabro. “I have training in viennoiserie, and the Philippines has centuries-old baking traditions like France. I wanted to combine the two.”
Fabro debuted at 120 with a single doughnut, the coconut malas—her hybrid of the Filipino carioca and the Hawaiian-Portuguese malasada—and from there, built an entire menu. “Filipino cuisine has Spanish, Chinese, Indonesian, Japanese, and American influences. It’s a food born from strife, and yet it retains a dignity.”
Hybridization is kind of Fabro’s modus operandi. Her ensaymadas, which she dubbed Isamadas , “are a hybrid of the Filipino-style brioche rolls and French kouign-amann,” she says. “Ensaymadas are the traditional housewarming gift of the Philippines. Out of respect, you bring ensaymadas.” Fabro is currently working with the Unit 120/Los Angeles Times Food Bowl, spearheading pastry for Filipino Food Fridays and recently co-hosted a screening and discussion of “ULAM.”