Jamaica In A Bite
Chef Nelson Whittingham encapsulates his Jamaican upbringing in a spiced, savory hand pie at Moon Bar.
photo: will blunt
Lunchtime in Jamaica for 11-year-old Nelson Whittingham meant running to the nearest food cart to pick up a piping hot beef patty. The pastries, often served on a roll with avocado and two slices of cheese, have been the ideal, on-the-go meal for kids, workers, and anyone who needs a quick bite. Now, as chef de cuisine of Moon Bar in Boston’s Back Bay neighborhood, Whittingham knew that the meat patty would be the ideal addition to the restaurant’s equatorial-focused menu, while also giving him the opportunity to bring more Jamaican flavors, and history, to Boston.
From the pastry, to the filling, to the spicy cheese dip accompanying it, Whittingham’s beef patty is an “encapsulation of Jamaican cuisine in one bite. The British brought a lot of different groups [of people] to Jamaica. After they weren't allowed to bring West Africans, they brought in a lot of indentured servants from other colonies, like South Asia, who brought their cuisines.”
While developing the patty, Whittingham did his research, going on a “patty crawl” across Greater Boston, but none of the offerings satisfied his craving. One of the most important factors for Whittingham was the beef to pastry ratio. Starting with the dough, inspired by the British hand-held meat pie, he incorporates beef suet in lieu of butter, lard, or shortening. “I wanted to keep it as beefy as possible.” Whittingham renders the beef suet, freezes it, and shaves it “like snow” into the dough before laminating it 10 times. The pastry, with the addition of turmeric and a masala spice mix, is a flavorful, flaky vehicle for the rich beef filling.
“The filling is a combination of the West African, Chinese, and East Indian influences that have really weighed heavily on Jamaican cuisine.” The spicy, deeply flavorful beef filling is a combination of peppers, garlic, onion, spicy chiles, tamari, scallions, allspice, curry powder, thyme, and hot sauce. “Back in the day, they didn't have refrigeration, and [spices and hot peppers] would keep your dish fresher for longer. I wanted to get as close to an authentic patty as I could, so I wanted to keep the spice level very high.”
To incorporate the cheese slices often served with the patty, Whittingham presents the meat pie with a tangy American cheese dip seasoned with a mustardy habanero hot sauce for a thinner consistency and a final punch of heat.
“This dish is personal to me. I ate one of these every day growing up.” The final dish, a complex concoction of uniquely Jamaican flavors and a delightfully “messy” meal, has evolved from being young Whittingham’s favorite food, to becoming one of the most popular dishes at Moon Bar.
