There are no limits to creativity when you cook like Chef Kevin Naderi. “I don’t pigeonhole myself in a specific name or concept,” he says. “I just cook the shit that I like to eat.” Naderi’s restaurant, Roost, is the quintessential neighborhood spot. It’s warm, inviting, and it’s menu blends Southern, Asian, and Middleastern flavors. Guests may find anything from North African berbere-spiced chicken wings to delicata squash risotto to roasted pumpkin flan. With Houston as your backdrop, marrying global cuisines with the American South is natural. Naderi is a child of two Iranian immigrants who came to the States for college and planned to return, but once the Iran-Iraq war broke out, they decided to make a new home of Houston. “I was a troublemaker,” says Naderi of his Houston childhood. “Actually, I went to military school, and when I came back, my high school put me in home economics.” Cooking brought Naderi discipline, imagination, and the realization of a natural talent—one that he still continues to pursue. Although he enjoys learning and mastering every and all cuisines, Persian flavors have followed him throughout his career, from a cabbage roll that beat Bobby Flay to an enormous pomegranate-glazed lamb shank. At Roost, the lamb is a deconstructed rendition of Khoresh Bademjan, a Persian eggplant and tomato stew that often includes lamb. “I like the lighter rendition of it,” says Naderi. He slow roasts his lamb shank at a low temperature until the meat begins to fall of the bone. Then he lays it over shallot basmati rice, grilled chinese eggplant, and a sweet tomato-cinnamon gravy. A flourish of herbs and crispy shallots finishes the dish. It’s an ode to Naderi’s heritage, thoughtfully executed with French-Southern technique: a true Houston love ballad.