Boston Voices
In June, we reached out to the more than 75 Boston hospitality professionals. We asked, "How are you holding up?" These are some of their responses.
Chef Matthew Bullock of Peregrine
“Not only will we need to keep everyone safe and healthy, but we also need to take steps to respect each other. Equality in the restaurant world has come to the forefront of headlines because of recent events. It saddens me that it’s taken so long to give voices to those who haven’t had one. Those of us that return to rebuild the industry we love in the wake of the pandemic have a responsibility to be part of this change, too.”
Chef Didem Hosgel of Sofra
The irony is, I had given my notice to leave Sofra back in September, 2019. After happily working with the company for 11 years, I thought it was time for me to start my own business. I was supposed to leave at the end of April to become a private chef and cater. So when Ana decided to open Sofra back up for takeout, I didn't return. Even though I knew I was going to leave Sofra, I never imagined it was going to be this way.
Chef Daniel Bojorquez of La Brasa
From being encouraged to attend culinary school, to migrating from Mexico to become a chef, to every line cook job I held in Boston, to my mentor who took a chance and believed in me, to my investors, vendors, crew members, and guests who overtime became friends, and in some cases, family, this is the community I have chosen to fight for—ride or die.
Pastry Chef Brian Mercury of Puritan & Company
We as a restaurant community have never backed down from a fight, and right now, this is the most important fight of our time. Food nourishes the soul and brings people together. We will use its simple power to fuel the fight against inequality, injustice, and marginalization.
Chef Liz Barwick of Sarma
I am grateful to Cassie [Piuma] for her perseverance throughout the pandemic. She inspires me to think outside the box and never give up.
Chef Sarah Wade of Stillwater
To quote Florence and the Machine, “I did not build this ship to wreck.”
Sommelier Danielle Ayer of Talulla
When the restaurant ban first went into effect, we created “Casseroles for a Cause” a program designed to feed kids in our community that were going without food due to school closures because of COVID-19. For every purchased casserole (or soup), we donated 10 bagged lunches to Fletcher Maynard Academy, a Cambridge public school. We were able to donate 4,000 bagged lunches to children in need. It was a great way for us to give back and also buy time for us to figure out a takeout/delivery menu that was true to our restaurant and also doable with our two-person staff.
Restaurateurs Josh Lewin and Katrina Jazayeri of Juliet & Co.
We have a lot of reckoning to do—as individuals, as a business, as an industry, and as a nation. This might sound like lofty thinking, but look, around half of all people in the United States will work in restaurants at some point in their lives. Many of them will have their first jobs with us. They will learn patterns of behavior, and be socialized to accept realities that they will carry with them into their lives, careers, schools, and industries. This country is experiencing warranted unrest, and our industry is mirroring that. How we treat people, how we prepare for our own emergencies, who and what we value—these things have the power to change the future.
Pastry Chef Nikolas Mastalerz of O Ya
I’m personally excited to get back to cooking in restaurants and baking bread. However, this time of being unemployed has given me a lot of perspective. Spending time with my partner, John, and treasuring moments with family have never been more important to me.
Chef Chris Chung of Momi Nonmi
Right now I am afraid that, with all the reopening, it will happen again. That the second wave will come. Even though restaurants are open to customers, how many will risk coming out to eat again. Should I put my staff's life at risk? I am trying to find the safest way to keep the business running
Chef Lydia Reichert of Sycamore
It has been great to just be a cook again. We are all having to go back to the core of it all, which is why we got into this. It's clearly not for the money. Cook good food that people want to come back for, even if it's a bit different than before. Adapt and evolve, throw something at the wall and see if it sticks. I am not really sure what people are looking for. Comfort food in the beginning, more adventurous as time goes on, kind of like opening a new restaurant!
Chef Conor Dennehy of Talulla
I’m hopeful. I’m hopeful that the business will buy us a lifeline to make it through this mess and I’m hopeful that we’ll be able to do it in a fashion that keeps everyone safe. I’m hopeful that the recent protests will bring about actual change. I hope that my daughter can grow up in a better world than the one we’re living in now.
Pastry Chef Dee Steffen Chinn of Big Heart Hospitality
I was listening to a great podcast (Julie Foudy's Laughter Permitted) a couple days before closing up our restaurants and there was a great quote I have tried to keep in my head during all of this: "Adjust and adapt," from Dr. Colleen Hacker. The best part is, she wants you to do it with a little dance. So when I feel myself getting frustrated with life not being back to complete normalcy, I do a little dance and sing. So—do a little dance and sing, “adjust and adapt, adjust and adapt….”
Beverage Director Brian Callahan of Big Heart Hospitality
The resiliency and versatility of hospitality professionals has made me very hopeful and proud to be in this industry. There was so much sharing of knowledge across social media—things like virtual happy hours and cocktail competitions. This industry can feel very competitive and cutthroat sometimes, but that was really special to be a part of.
Chef Timothy Hixson of Sinatras
It's been nice being home, spending time with my family but also very nerve racking. Constantly asking myself—should I even go outside? Can I ride my bike? Do we really need these groceries? I know those are some of the same battles that everyone has had.
Bartender Kate Belanger of Mariel
I hope that everyone keeps fighting for what they believe in and stays safe, and I believe things will only get better from here.
Chef Marc Sheehan of Loyal Nine
I always knew I was stretched thin, exhausted, and living with constant stress for the last 5+ years, but I don't think I really realized what the other side of the coin looked like until we closed and quarantine began. Oddly, despite the massive challenges ahead of us as restaurant owners, it was the most relaxed, well rested, and calm I had been in years. And I think that was a wake up call for me to find ways to have a more sustainable life. We always tried to create that balance for our staff to the best of our ability, but creating it for me was never much of a priority. That is no longer the case.
Sommelier Lauren Hayes of Pammy’s
We have the chance to rebuild a better, more diverse, inclusive, and healthy community. I confess, I was guilty of being too apathetic toward the blatant white supremacy in our industry. I'm grateful that, due to the halt of our daily grind, we woke up. We are the industry leaders and it is up to us to make the changes needed, not to wait for them to happen. I see that now and it is the silver lining to this Reset Button. Pammy's will be just fine, better and stronger than ever even. It's more important now that we use our platform to help others do the same.
Chef Mike DiStefano of Oak + Rowan
I am thankful for all who supported us in the community—customers, purveyors, etc., to make these times easier as we navigate the unknown. Hopefully with the established restaurant coalition, we will see a more defined action to help our industry sustain the future, provide more opportunities, and create stronger restaurant families.
Chef Adrienne Wright of Deuxave
I now can appreciate more fully the luxury of a walk-ins worth of beautiful, in season produce. I have refined long forgotten techniques through thoughtful home cooking. I had time to experiment and read new cookbooks. And now I am so happy to be back in the kitchen crushing it for a hungry Boston audience.
