Driving Down the Fry-Way
Whether spiced, dipped, or loaded, french fries are stealing the spotlight.
The essential sidekick no more! French fries are flying high in Los Angeles as chefs find clever ways to power up their potato game. Whether hand-cut or waffle, these three dishes deliver on flavor and texture, and do justice to everyone’s best fried friend.
Nashville Hot Fries, Comeback Sauce, Ketchup
Chef Greg Inga’s Nashville Hot Fries are on the verge of being too spicy, but are just tame enough to keep you coming back for more. “They remind me of Hot Cheetos,” he says. They bank on hand-cut Kennebecs, blanched and fried, then tossed in “Nashville oil”—a blend of cayenne, garlic powder, brown sugar, and other spices mixed with hot oil straight out of the fryer. The inspiration hit Inga one day in the kitchen when he saw “one of the cooks was dipping fries in the hot oil.” At Son of a Gun, he serves the fries with ketchup and Comeback Sauce to double down on the heat and provide creamy contrast. “[Comeback Sauce] is a Southern thing. It’s mayonnaise, ketchup, and Heinz Chili Sauce-based with a bunch of other ingredients, including Worcestershire and dried spices.”
Waffle Fries, Fromage Blanc, Honey, Chile Flakes, Chives
“It’s trashy and classy, and really decadent,” says Chef Catie Randazzo. At All Day Baby, sandwiches and diner vibes define the space, so having a killer plate of fries on the menu was a must. Inspired by a fry-and-cheese pairing at The Market Italian Village in their hometown of Columbus, Ohio, Randazzo serves hot and crispy waffle fries alongside fromage blanc from Achadinha Cheese Company in Petaluma. The sweet, creamy, and tangy cheese soothes the salty punch from the fries. “It’s about finding balance between fresh and indulgent,” says Randazzo. A drizzle of honey and a sprinkle of chile flakes and chives complete the trifecta of sweet, salty, and savory.
Loaded Brisket Fries, American Cheese Sauce, Pico de Gallo, Chipotle Aïoli, Jalapeño Toreados
Chef Rodolfo Suazo’s loaded fries go for a maximalist approach. “It's a take on carne asada fries. If you’re from Los Angeles, you know exactly what that is.” He sorted through approximately 40 types of frozen french fries, looking for “the crispiest we could find to support everything.” Suazo landed on a thicker cut, and seasons them generously with salt, sugar, onion, garlic, and chiles before drenching them in New School American Cheese. Texas-inspired barbecue is the name of the game at Maple Block Meat Company, so Suazo’s “carne asada” comes in the form of their signature brisket, smoked in their J&R Smoke-Master. The brisket tops the fries along with pico de gallo, chipotle aïoli, and jalapeño toreados. “They’re a super heavy, great hangover cure. It’s a fun item.”
