Lights, Camera, Dinner
Everybody loves a show. At these three San Francisco spots, each chef has their own reasons (and aesthetics) for bringing the drama.
The theater of dining is alive and well in San Francisco, from communal eating at one-table-dining-room and daytime retail spot Merchant Roots, to sprawling Birdsong where almost every seat faces the open, Michelin-star kitchen, and on to Avery, where bites arrive in the hands of primates. It’s quite an evolution from the unfussy plating of Chez Panisse or the austerity of fine dining minimalism. Is it the Instagram effect? The Lazy Bear effect (but most of the drama there is driven by the format)? Is it a hook for the new monied diners swimming through the streets of San Francisco like schools of fish? If it were the influence of the Rocas in Spain or Massimo in Italy, we would see the effect in other cities. Maybe it’s a quirk of San Francisco, where imaginative chefs are seeking to add value to their dining experience in a competitive market. Each chef here has their own reasons for bringing the drama.