Apple Pain Perdu

PASTRY

Jun 16

Brioche, Apple Caramel, Apple Anglaise, Black Apple Sorbet, and Brie Sabayon

Chef Douglas Rankin of Bar Restaurant | Los Angeles

INGREDIENTS:

Brioche:
2.15 kilograms bread flour
56 grams salt
321 grams sugar
26 grams fresh yeast
515 grams milk
17 eggs
1.08 kilograms butter, room temperature
Cooking spray

Sugar Dough:
453 grams butter, softened
453 grams sugar
400 grams all-purpose flour

Apple Caramel:
4 kilograms fresh-pressed Fuji apple juice, peels reserved

Apple Anglaise:
25 grams vanilla paste
266 grams yolks
430 grams milk
1.38 kilograms cream
360 grams sugar

Arkansas Black Apple Sorbet:
2 kilograms diced Arkansas black apples, skin on
2 kilograms juiced Arkansas black apples
Sorbet syrup
Salt

Brie Sabayon:
100 grams French brie, rind removed
260 grams cream cheese
480 grams egg yolks
240 grams sugar
30 grams vanilla paste

To Assemble and Serve:
Sugar
Clarified butter

METHOD:

For the Brioche:
Add flour, salt, sugar, yeast, milk, and 15 eggs to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on speed 2 until dough has formed. Add butter in three batches, waiting for one batch to fully emulsify into dough before adding the next. Increase mixer speed to 3 and mix until gluten becomes smooth and aerated. Add remaining eggs and mix until dough is uniform and can stretch to a windowpane. Rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. Fold dough then place in walk-in until needed. When ready to bake, place metal ring molds evenly around a parchment-lined sheet tray then spray heavily with cooking spray. Roughly shape 110 grams of dough into a ball and place into a ring mold. Repeat until you’ve filled all remaining ring molds. Wrap the molds in plastic and let proof for about 1½ hours or until dough has relaxed and doubled in size. Bake at 350℉ for 40 minutes. Immediately unmold brioche and cool on a wire rack. Wrap in plastic and reserve.

For the Sugar Dough:
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, add butter and sugar. On speed 2, cream together until light and fluffy. Add flour and mix until dough becomes homogeneous. Separate dough into 3 batches. In between 2 pieces of parchment paper, roll each batch out. Place each batch on a separate sheet tray and freeze until needed.

For the Apple Caramel:
Add apple juice to a large pot and bring to a boil, making sure to skim any sediment and foam that comes to the top. Bring juice to a simmer and continue cooking until liquid reduces to 900 grams. Strain juice then chill over an ice bath. Transfer caramel to a deli container and reserve.

For the Apple Anglaise:
In a large metal bowl, whisk together vanilla paste, yolks, and 300 grams Apple Caramel. In a large metal pot, bring milk, cream, and sugar to a rolling boil. Temper boiling cream mixture into yolks. Place anglaise over an ice bath to chill. Transfer to deli containers and refrigerate until needed.

For the Apple Powder:
Place all reserved Fuji apple peels in a dehydrator. Once peels are fully dehydrated, transfer to a Vitamix blender and blend into a powder. Transfer powder to a deli container with a silica gel packet and reserve.

For the Arkansas Black Apple Sorbet:
Add apples and apple juice to a large pot and bring to a simmer. Continue to cook until apples are tender. Transfer apple mixture to a Vitamix blender and blend until smooth. Using a refractometer to measure, add enough water and sorbet syrup to achieve 27% Brix. Season with salt, transfer to deli container, and freeze until needed.

For the Brie Sabayon:
In a small metal pot over low heat, melt together brie and cream cheese until smooth and glossy. Remove from heat. In a large metal bowl, combine yolks, sugar, and vanilla paste. Cook egg mixture over a double boiler until tripled in volume. Add melted cheese to yolks and whisk until dissolved. Place sabayon over an ice bath to chill. Once cooled, transfer sabayon to deli containers and store in a low boy.

To Assemble and Serve:
Halve and trim the ends of 7 Brioche pieces. Place in a shallow metal hotel pan then heat in a 325℉ oven for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, empty 2 deli containers of Apple Anglaise into a pot and reheat until warm. Remove Brioche from oven and immediately pour warm Apple Anglaise over the top. Using a glove, gently push into the center of each Brioche piece to ensure that the Apple Anglaise reaches the center of the Brioche. Cover and cool in walk-in until needed.

When ready to serve, coat Apple Anglaise-covered brioche in sugar. Heat a black steel pan, add clarified butter and melt. Add Brioche and cook both sides until golden brown. Evenly place pain perdu on a sheet tray lined with parchment. Using a ring cutter that is slightly smaller than the Brioche, cut out circles of Sugar Dough. Place each Sugar Dough round directly in the center of a pain perdu. Bake pain perdu with Sugar Dough at 350℉ for 4 minutes then transfer to serving plates. Coat top of pain perdu in Brie Sabayon, allowing it to fall around all sides of pain perdu and cover the entire well of the plate. Cover Brie Sabayon with sugar then torch until evenly brûléed. Top with a small scoop of Arkansas Black Apple Sorbet and a sprinkle of Dehydrated Apple Powder. Serve immediately.

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