It's Always ______ In Philadelphia
What makes Philly, Philly? Hospitality pros want people to know it's about much more than cheesesteaks.
illustration: christine larsen
Everyone’s got something to say about Philly. Whether it's people clamoring over cheesesteaks or talking about the city’s little brother complex, no one is actually getting to the bottom of what is happening on the ground. To put to rest all the chatter, hearsay, hubbub, and gossip, we went straight to the source and asked the industry what they think about the future and character of the Philadelphia culinary scene. What should people think of when they think of Philly dining? What’s the biggest misunderstanding about the dining scene? What do they hope to see more of in Philly dining? And what makes the hospitality community there special? The responses speak to the strengths of the restaurant industry in Philadelphia and capture the excitement and progress that is really being made.
What do you want people to think of when they think of Philly dining?
Chef Justin Coleman of Bake’n Bacon
I want people to think of the diversity within the city of brotherly and sisterly love. People of all walks of life can come together through the culinary experience that food offers.
Bartenders Kyle Darrow and John Grubb of Next of Kin
We want people to think about the heart behind the product and service. We don’t get a lot of attention like other markets, so we don’t do this for the glory—it’s all because we love it. We love to make people feel happy and welcome.
Pastry Chef Russell Johnson of Ambra and Southwark
Philadelphia is pretty unique in its quantity of row homes, and that density means that there are viable customer bases for really good food in big pockets throughout the city. There's something incredibly charming about finding a restaurant gem like Royal Izakaya tucked away on an otherwise completely residential block.
Chef Sam Henzy of Middle Child Clubhouse
I want people to think about the soul of the city and all of the different intersecting scenes of music and art that feed off of each other and make each other more exciting. Grab a cheesesteak if you want but, maybe check out a banh mi or Ethiopian chicken spot after. There's just so much going on. Behind the rough exterior that we are often perceived to have are a lot of really sweet, kind, and creatively inspired people with really diverse backgrounds.
Baker of Cortlandt Matthew of Mighty Bread
Philadelphia is a place with a lot of history. Philadelphians are very proud of their city (go Birds!). Philadelphians pay their respects to this history by carrying on the legacy of doing whatever the fuck they want. Philly’s culinary environment is as integral to our identity as The Sound of Philadelphia is to disco, or the Founding Fathers are to America.
Biggest misunderstanding about the Philly dining scene?
Chef Sashia Liriano of Saviñon
I don’t feel as though there is enough boasting about the quality of the hospitality you will experience in Philadelphia. Although there are no Michelin star restaurants in Philadelphia, that does not mean there aren’t establishments that are well deserving of them.
Bartender Patrick Jennings of Andra Hem
A big misunderstanding about Philly, though it is changing rapidly, is that we are all cheesesteaks, hoagies, and blue collar dive bars. I think it is a stigma that has been placed on us nationwide. That isn’t the case, and our many visitors will attest to that, as will our residents.
Chef Yun Fuentes of Bolo
Philly’s culinary scene is bigger than Center City. The outskirts, suburbs, and all other areas have a lot to offer. I often find myself in the Northeast at El Coquí Bakery where they make the best pan de agua, or out in Manayunk at Taqueria Feliz where Chef Memo makes killer birria, or out on the Westside eating the best fried chicken at Doro Bet, or late night in Chinatown eating dim-sum with friends.
Chef Nicholas Bazik of Provenance
Philly has always been seen as an “underdog.” There has been a prevailing notion that we are a little more rustic and a little less refined than other food communities. In the past, there were very few culinary institutions that were known outside the city that weren’t Italian restaurants or cheesesteak shops. Food culture is a direct representation of the communities that make up our city, and we are a much more diverse city now than we ever have been.
Chef Tyler Akin of Le Cavalier
There used to be a trope about Philly being just "working class." That label would be applied to the restaurant culture, rightly, in a lot of cases, but refinement was to be found only in nearby cities like New York and D.C. We've seen chefs and operators prove that not to be the case over and over again, opening beautiful restaurants with really refined and thoughtful food, even if they don't have a $200-per-person price tag.
What are you most excited about or what do you hope to see more of in Philly dining?
Baker Meagan Benz of Crust Vegan Bakery
As a vegan, I love when I can go somewhere that doesn't identify as a vegan restaurant but has a wide variety of dishes that I can eat. I am less interested in the vegan junk food scene and want to see more interesting flavors coming from different cooking techniques, spices, and seasonal produce.
Chef Elijah Milligan of Rosemary
There’s been a surge of new restaurants since the pandemic—a lot of really good ones at that! I’ve long believed that our food scene could rival any other major city in the U.S., and I’m excited to see so many restaurateurs and chefs get the chance to put that to the test, including myself.
Chef Mehmet Ergin of Pera Turkish Cuisine
Philadelphia has always been known for diverse food culture, and it continues to expand. I am excited to see more unique and innovative dining options, including fusion cuisines and creative takes on traditional dishes. The city's culinary scene offers something for everyone.
Chef Kate O’Neill of Andra Hem
I would love to see more female chefs and restaurateurs. I have had the pleasure of working with some exceptional female cooks that are now opening their own establishments and heading their own kitchens. For so long this has been a male-dominated field, and I’m excited to see the gears starting to shift. Also, I’d like to see an overall shift in industry standards for wellness and mental health. This industry really takes a toll on one’s mind and body, and there should be more services available to employees to allow them to live healthy lives.
Bartender Daniel Miller of Martha
I hope to see more independent restaurants as opposed to large restaurant groups. It’s so exciting to see a long time bartender or chef who has been grinding in the industry get a chance to open their own location. I don’t want the idea of a neighborhood corner bar to die. I hope locations like that—that truly feel like a “third space”—are here to stay.
Chef Dera Nd-Ezuma of Suya Suya
I hope for more West African restaurants in Philadelphia. I would like to see more folks like me help share our food with the greater Philadelphia area.
What makes the Philly hospitality community special?
Chef Justin Bacharach of Royal Izakaya
The Philly dining scene is intimate. Philadelphia is a smaller city, and when you dine at one of our top restaurants, you can see how passionate the staff is about all the other restaurants in town. I love being able to share some of my newer recommendations and old favorites to guests, and I equally appreciate when people come to eat at Royal Izakaya based on another restaurant’s recommendation.
Bartender Tom Brander of Wilder
There are so many diverse minds coming together, and it does not feel cutthroat. At any time you can walk into a bar and strike up a conversation with a bartender or a patron and have inspiration find you. The sense of comradery feels special and spreads past just in the industry. People truly want to share what they are doing with the public and have gotten past the elitism you see present in this industry too often. There is also an incredible emphasis on small business and partnerships in the city. So many people are focusing on sourcing and supporting the smaller businesses. The community supports the community, and real recognizes real.
Brewers Kyle Wolak and Brendon Boudwin of Carbon Copy
Philly has a reputation for having intense sports fans, but I think it stems from them being so passionate. The same is true for the hospitality community. Underneath our sometimes rough exterior, there is an unwavering desire to educate and share personal stories with their guests through food and drink. It feels more connected than other places, and it leads to a lot of fun collaborations and camaraderie.
Bartender Harry Jamison of a.kitchen+bar
A lot of the best restaurants have had the same staff for years now because they value their employees. This has always been considered a fluid industry with people who are drifting in and out of jobs, but with a lot of the top restaurants now, openings are few and far between. In those restaurants that have a stable, happy staff, it can feel like you're being invited into somebody's home rather than merely completing a transaction. There will always be a certain degree of transience in restaurants, but I've been pleasantly surprised to find a growing number of restaurants that are successful because they regard their staff as family and protect them in that way.
