The Produce at Hand

TECHNIQUE

May 16

A stellar delivery of sweetpotatoes, winter citrus, and Ricotta Vecchio got Chef Mathew Meeker’s wheels turning.

A good produce delivery can make a chef feel like a kid on Christmas morning, which is exactly how Chef Mathew Meeker (formerly of Hathorne) felt when he received a seasonal shipment that would inspire his sweetpotato dish.

“We got in incredible [fingerling] sweetpotatoes, and also really amazing citrus,” recalls Meeker. “The Bloomy Rind’s Ricotta Vecchio cheese came in at the same time and I lost my shit over it.” Inspired by the bold ingredients, Meeker set out to put everything together in a way that was both homogeneous and distinct. To do this, he cross-utilizes both the sweetpotatoes and the citrus so that their flavors are concentrated and can hold their own next to the potent Ricotta Vecchio cheese. “Everything is apparent. I really appreciate the fact that it highlights so many products and everything is synergistic with each other.”

Confit Sweetpotatoes

Maintaining the structural integrity of the fingerling sweetpotatoes is very important to Meeker. He confits them, cooking them low and slow to trap the rich starch and liquids. A quick deep fry crisps the outside and dehydrates them slightly, concentrating the sugars, amplifying their sweetness, and stabilizing the shape enough to be picked up and dipped.

Sweetpotato Sauce

The sauce blanketing the sweetpotatoes is made with juice from the same fingerlings, and a combination of grapefruit juice and Buddha’s hand kosho. “Fermenting the Buddha’s hand in this way takes the bitterness out of it.” Accented with cinnamon, allspice, juniper and bay leaf, the resulting sauce is botanical and sticky, with a warmth and depth that mirrors molasses.

Etrog Citron Discs

Cousin to Buddha’s hand, etrog citron is mostly pith with an aroma similar to bergamot. Meeker uses a mandoline to shave the rind and then punches out uniform discs for garnish. The discs are small but add a touch of herby brightness to the sweetpotatoes.

Vecchio Cheese Dipping Sauce

Ricotta Vecchio is a semi-firm, lactic cheese that Meeker knew would make the perfect dipping sauce. “We want to make food approachable and have this shareable atmosphere,” he says. “Having a dipping sauce makes the dish more fun and dynamic. The customers can have as little or as much as they want.” The sidecar combines the Vecchio with whey leftover from Hathorne’s house-made ricotta. Simmered with cream then blended with emulsified brown butter, the sauce is uber salty with a subtle funk. “It’s really delicious and playful,” beams Meeker, “The dish is one of my favorite dishes I’ve made in a long time.”