Carnes Apache

Guajillo Árbol Salsa, Grains of Paradise Salsa Macha, and Grains of Paradise Crema

Chef Rishi Manoj Kumar of Bar Sótano | Chicago
Yield: 1 tartare

Traveling to Mexico twice a year, Chef Rishi Manoj Kumar of Bar Sótano spent three years perfecting his carnes apache under the tutelage of Chef Rick Bayless. Manoj Kumar’s treatment of ribeye and tuna references Tenochtitlán (the capital of the Aztec Empire in modern-day central Mexico), where meat was cured with salt then cooked with the acidity of lemon juice and peppers. Immigrants to Veracruz and Baja California inspired the spice mixes, which Manoj Kumar makes into salsa macha. His additions of radish, crunchy kohlrabi, and red vein sorrel are a nod to Chicago. Lastly, he uses a flavor that’s plentiful in his home country of Singapore. Biting like cilantro with a black pepper finish, grains of paradise is incorporated into a crema and the salsa macha. Although the recipe is deeply rooted in Mexico, this international touch was logical to him: “My generation of chefs see the world as a global cuisine.”

Adapted by StarChefs | September 2021

INGREDIENTS:

Guajillo Árbol Salsa:
8 guajillo chiles, stemmed, deseeded, toasted, and rehydrated.
20 chiles de árbol, stemmed, deseeded, toasted, and rehydrated
Agar agar
4 ounces lime juice
Salt 

Grains of Paradise Salsa Macha:
0.25 gallon extra-virgin olive oil
10 guajillo chiles, stemmed, deseeded, and cut into 1-inch strips
6 cloves garlic
5 tablespoons grains of paradise
1 teaspoon salt 

Grains of Paradise Crema:
8 ounces aïoli
4 ounces sour cream
2 tablespoons grains of paradise, powderized in a spice grinder
½ teaspoon salt

Tartare:
1.5 ounces ribeye cap, diced to ¼-inch pieces
Salt
1.5 ounces yellowfin tuna, diced to ¼-inch pieces
1.5 ounces kohlrabi, peeled and diced to ¼-inch pieces

To Assemble and Serve:
Salt
1 knob onion, thinly sliced into rings
1 breakfast radish, thinly sliced into rounds then cut into half-moons
Micro cilantro
Red vein sorrel
Tlayudas, tortilla chips, or lettuce cups

METHOD:

For the Guajillo Arbol Salsa:
Using a Vitamix blender, blend the chiles with enough water to form a smooth purée; strain. Weigh the purée and blend in 1.5% agar agar. Transfer purée to a pot over medium heat and bring to a boil. Continue boiling for 1 minute to form a gel. Spread the gel onto a sheet tray. Once set, transfer gel to a clean Vitamix blender. Add lime juice and blend until it becomes fluid. Season with salt. 

For the Grains of Paradise Salsa Macha:
In a pan over low flame, heat oil. Add chile, garlic, and grains of paradise and gently toast to avoid imparting any bitterness. Once the garlic turns a golden color, remove pan from heat and let the oil cool. In a separate container, dissolve salt in 2 tablespoons water. Add saltwater to the chile oil and transfer the mixture to a blender. Blend all the ingredients until smooth.

For the Grains of Paradise Crema:
In a bowl, mix to combine aïoli and sour cream. Fold in grains of paradise powder then season with salt. 

For the Tartare:
Season beef with salt and let cure at least 2 hours. Mix in remaining ingredients.

To Assemble and Serve:
In a bowl, mix Tartare with approximately 2 tablespoons Guajillo Árbol Salsa and 1 tablespoon Grains of Paradise Salsa Macha. Season with salt if needed. Pack Tartare mixture into a ring mold set over a serving plate and flatten. Top with dots of Grains of Paradise Crema. Finish with onion, radish, micro cilantro, and red vein sorrel. Serve with tlayudas, tortilla chips, or lettuce cups.

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