Einkorn Pullman

Baker Jonathan Bethony of Seylou | Washington, D.C.
Yield: 6 loaves

“Being the oldest cultivated wheat, Einkorn is often referred to as humankind’s first wheat. A recent discovery in Jordan found evidence of the first Einkorn loaf dating from nearly 14,000 years ago, made by Natufian hunter-gatherers. Today, it has gotten traction as an easy-to-digest alternative to “modern wheat.” Indeed, it’s higher in protein, vitamins, and minerals than its modern descendant, but what really stands out is Einkorn’s robust and complex flavor profile. The delicate crust exudes notes of Gruyère cheese. The spongy interior has great body and chew without being dense.

The preparation below is in a basic sourdough format. Because of the incredible flavor of the grain, we have chosen to keep the formula as simple as possible. The real magic happened in the land where the Einkorn was cultivated, with careful farming practices. We are merely setting the stage for what is already a masterpiece. Currently, we source our organic Einkorn from Lancaster County, a three-hour drive from our bakery. Though due to it’s rising popularity, it is available nationwide. So if you want to give it a go, it shouldn’t be too hard to find.

I highly recommend milling Einkorn fresh, if possible. Since it is a very soft grain, even a small home baker’s mill will give you silky flour. You may find shaping this dough very difficult. I skip the preshape, choosing to final-shape right into a buttered loaf pan. When shaping, I use water instead of flour to keep the dough from sticking to the bench. I use the stitching method popularized by Tartine. Don’t worry if it doesn’t form a tight loaf. Just get it into the pan. I score the loaf by dipping scissors in olive oil and cutting about ¼-inch down straight across the top, in the center, and end to end. For doneness, I look for a deep gold-orangish color on the crust and an interior of no less than 97°C.” — Baker Jonathan Bethony

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Adapted by StarChefs | November 2018

FORMULA

Levain 1:
300 grams whole Einkorn flour         
240 grams cold water            
60 grams starter                                             

Proof: 12 to 14 hours

Levain 2:
300 grams whole Einkorn flour         
138 grams water                                            
600 grams Levain 1

Proof: 3 to 4 hours

Final Mix:
5.5 kilograms whole Einkorn flour                
5.005 kilograms water                       
880 grams Levain 2                                       
121 grams salt                        

Desired Dough Temperature: 26°C
Bulk Ferment: 2½ to 3 hours, folding every 45 minutes
Divide/Shape: 1.86-kilogram blunt batards/13-inch by 4-inch Pullman loaf
Final Proof: 1½ hours
Bake: 240°C

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