Perfect Pairings

From Finger Lakes rieslings to pear ciders and French beers, wine professionals are looking to the lighter side for inspiration.

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Thanks to a burgeoning curiosity from guests, sommeliers in New York are reaching for a wider range of high-quality beverages when brainstorming ideas for pairings. As diners move away from red wines and start to embrace the potential of more creative combinations, white and orange wines, sakes, and ciders are finding their place on wine lists throughout the city. These are some of our favorite pairings from the past year that speak to this subtle—and perhaps long-awaited—shift in palates and preference.

Sommelier Luke Sullivan of Sailor

Chef Skylar Mosca’s monkfish liver paté, pickled cherries, herbs, toast paired with Riesling, Dr. Bürklin-Wolf, Gaisböhl, Pfalz, Germany, 2021

“German riesling doesn’t get the recognition that it should in the city. [When Chef Skylar Mosca] told me about the monkfish and the richness of the paté with the cherries, I knew I wanted something to cut through but also stand up to the intensity of the dish. [The riesling] cuts through the fish, which is cooked with a lot of alliums so there is a savory, sweet richness to it with some acidity. I decided to pair a white wine with this dish because I didn’t want a wine with a high tannin structure. I wanted a mineral-driven wine with an intensity of flavor.”

Sommelier Adrienne Vanni of Lola’s

Chef Suzanne Cupps’ carrot masala yogurt, cilantro chutney, scallions, honey, lime, naan paired with Riesling, Bloomer Creek, Auten, Finger Lakes, New York, 2022

“I needed a wine that could do a lot of different things at once. This riesling sees a short amount of skin contact, which adds a white pepper and smoky element that enhances the savoriness of the carrot masala and complements the light char of the naan. The notes of citrus and stone fruit play nicely with the mild sweetness of the roasted carrots while the brightness of the wine cuts through the richness. Finally, the subtle floral notes heighten the herbaceousness of the cilantro chutney.”

Sommelier Mackenzie Gassett formerly of Nura

Chef Tajeh Porter’s citrus-cured fluke crudo, green apple, yuzu, green Thai chile, radish, cilantro paired with Hárslevelű/Riesling/Furmint, Bukolyi Marcell, Köves, Nagy-Eded, Hungary, 2022

“I love when something is super green, fun, and fresh, but [I wanted a wine that] matched the fruitiness that Tajeh brings into this crudo. [It’s] almost like when your mom puts lemon juice on apples for a soccer game snack. It has so much acid and fruit. It’s a congruent pairing and has a touch of spice, which is nice to have nullified by something soft and lush.”

Sommelier Nikita Malhotra of Smithereens

Chef Nicholas Tamburo’s coconut-lime sorbet, banana purée, pineapple granita, passion fruit, banana peel powder, maple candy, lime zest paired with Pear Cider, Cidrerie du Vulcain, Poiré Comment!, Normandy, France, 2022

“The acidity is so finely tuned on this dessert that I was looking for something that could support the acid, but not add more to it. And I didn't want something with residual sugar, because I wanted to let the refreshing and palate-cleansing nature of the dish shine. I also adore pear cider, and Jacques Perritaz is a legend in the cider community.”

Sommelier Mariano Garay of Corima

Chef Fidel Caballero’s beef tripe-wood ear mushroom taco, green tomato, onions, tomato kimchi powder, corn tortilla paired with Lug: Blonde Ale, Brasserie Des Voirons, France, 6% ABV

 “Fidel loves beer, and when you are eating tacos, it’s a natural pairing, but we thought: ‘how can we elevate this?’ My family is from Central Mexico, so we’re very big on Victoria lager. It’s very round and bold. This beer feels similar. It’s round and crispy, but you get this sort of grassiness and hoppiness to it. The blonde ale in this case could hold up to the spice from the kimchi powder and match the heartiness of the beef tripe.”

Sommelier Alessandra Ameglio of Estela

Chef Ignacio Mattos’ s’crispy arroz negro, squid, romesco, aïoli, toasted hazelnuts, scallions paired with Palomino, Ramiro Ibáñez, Ube El Reventón, Andalusia, Spain, 2023

“I naturally gravitated towards white wine as [the dish] needs plenty of acidity and freshness to pair with the salty black rice and briny squid, but also some texture to balance the subtle spice and overall intensity. This pairing is particularly fun because some of those briny flavors are present in the wine as well due to its aging under flor, along with a textural and slightly nutty finish. We’ve paired this with a classic Sherry before, but this is more fun.”

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ON CHANGING PALETES

“I think that the industry has understood the value of white wine for a while. I believe the guests are more recently catching onto the idea that white wine should stand alongside and hold the same value as red wine on the table or in a pairing.” — Sommelier Luke Sullivan of Sailor

“I find myself gravitating towards white wines when pairing dishes, particularly at Estela. If someone wants to drink only red, or only white, or only Iberian wines, these are the times you make interesting discoveries about what's possible in the world of pairing. I think we are seeing more and more people consider a high quality bottle of white wine and perhaps a half glass of red with their entrées, when oftentimes it was the other way around.” — Sommelier Alessandra Ameglio of Estela

“[I want] to show variety in white wine, but also keep the palate of the guest ‘fresh’ rather than tire them out with red wine. [I’m] not against red wine at all, but I do think the pairing needs to be considered more thoroughly with a red just due to tannins. At Corima, we serve more seafood than you would think, so that gives me motivation to be more experimental with the pairing.” — Sommelier Mariano Garay of Corima

“I opened Smithereens with a white wine-dominant list. But that doesn't mean I am opposed to having red wine be an option for pairing. I think it is important to think about what will highlight the dish and what you want to highlight. I do see a bit of a shift in preference. People don't want big, burly, high-ABV wines as much today as they did before. Also, cider and sake are beginning to be embraced and appreciated at an array of restaurant programs.” — Sommelier Nikita Malhotra of Smithereens

“The biggest trend I see is people not being aware of the vast breadth of wine profiles, so they limit themselves based on experience. But that's the job of the sommelier, and I think if we took away any firmly held, if perhaps misguided, convictions—whether you're looking for something bright and mineral or plush and opulent—you can find it in any varietal, red or white.” — Sommelier Mackenzie Gassett formerly of Nura

“Before the pandemic, I'd often get instructions from guests that they wanted red wines only with pairings, even if that meant the pairings wouldn't necessarily work. After COVID, I realized that perhaps diners had changed their feelings about white wines as the dominant pairing choice. White wines are just more versatile.” — Sommelier Adrienne Vanni of Lola’s

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