Ben Sukle’s Dear Coastal New England
Ben Sukle’s letter to the New England hospitality community
illustration: Ty Paulhus
Dear New England,
It's a common truth that recognition is something to be savored. It's a delightful departure from our daily routines, allowing us to pause and appreciate the fruits of our labor. Recognition from your peers and loved ones is even better. Get your flowers, you’ve earned them!
In the realm of culinary arts, however, there is an irony in bestowing recognition upon food. The act of judging and awarding something as ancient and universal as food can seem odd, like handing out accolades for "best air." I kid, but within that joke lies some truth—there is potential for overlooking major narratives and leaving certain cultures unacknowledged.
New England is an expansive and diverse region. The foods found here express a tension between process and preservation. I find myself inclined more towards the process. Having not grown up with a tangible cultural or historical background, I rely on my influences to shape my menus. In this region, it's important to know that there are cuisines represented through preservation, too. But this can often go unrecognized for a lot of reasons: imperialism, colonialism, or our modern institutions. There is a lot to be learned and gained from understanding the similarities of these two pieces of the puzzle.
When considering the process of preparing New England ingredients through different cultural lenses, we witness the power of our culinary upbringings. As we get to eat these creations,we can't forget that this is just one aspect of New England's culinary story. The region's rich heritage also shines through the preservation of indigenous cuisines and cultures. Just as a recipe is passed down through generations, a cuisine is safeguarded through the rituals,stories, and customs of a community. The Mashpee Wampanoag people here in Rhode Island are a testament to this. By maintaining their culinary traditions, they preserve a part of themselves and their culture, encapsulating their history.
While the recognition of culinary achievements can inspire innovation and creativity, it must be done with sensitivity to the broader narrative. The slippery slope lies in awarding accolades without acknowledging the multifaceted nature of New England's culinary landscape. If we only celebrate dishes that align with a limited perspective of culinary “excellence,” we run the risk of perpetuating stereotypes and overlooking the cultural contributions of various communities.
Embracing the full spectrum of New England's culinary diversity requires a shift in our approach to judging food. We should celebrate the full spectrum of creativity and richness that comes from diverse cultural influences.
By highlighting this multifaceted narrative, we can ensure that recognition becomes a celebration of New England's culinary tapestry in its entirety. Let's savor the untold stories of New England culinary heritage—a tapestry woven with the ebb and flow of process and preservation.
— Ben Sukle, Chef/Owner Gift Horse & Oberlin
