Dear Boston
Chef Jamie Bissonnette’s letter to the Greater Boston hospitality community
Illustration: Rachel Krohn
I moved to Boston as a young idiot in 1997, and here I am in 2024 as an older, and slightly wiser, idiot. When I left Hartford, Connecticut after going to culinary school in South Florida, I had my sights set on Boston as a stepping stone to other cities. I had always thought I would end up in Chicago, San Francisco, or Philadelphia, chasing stars and seeing the country. As fate would have it, Boston became my home, and I am immensely proud of that fact.
Some great opportunities brought me to New York City, Dubai, and Bangkok to open restaurants. Meeting chefs, and having an amazing circle of friends globally, allowed me to cook in so many cities in the U.S. and abroad. But everytime I come home from traveling, cooking, or vacationing, Boston is still my favorite place to cook. We have stellar products and amazing guests, but, most importantly, we have a passionate community.
Boston's restaurant community is still inspiring me. I remember meeting the old guard chefs and seeing them out at events and bars. It was so exhilarating the first time I saw Silvertone after-hours in the early 2000s. I spent late nights at the B-Side making friends with line cooks who grew to win awards and open restaurants of their own. I went to pop-ups held in apartments that morphed into 200-to-300-person events over the years. Now, I look back at those times and laugh.
I am regularly in awe of the evolution and innovation the Greater Boston service industry has to offer. There has been, and hopefully always will be, a rising tide that raises all ships. Boston is a hard city for small restaurateurs and chefs. The costs can be huge, but Boston is a scrappy city. We like to fight, and we are fighting for new ways to create access for the underdogs. I predict that Boston will have more opportunities for small groups to grow, and for new chefs to excel.
As the city sprawls outward and upward with new highrises, we see more restaurants opening and more pathways for young industry professionals emerging. To those young chefs I say: lobby for yourselves. Band together and make some noise.
And to the old guard: we have another chance to promote the next generation and set an example for them. We must work together to be a united voice. Collaboration with groups like Massachusetts Restaurants United and networking with like-minded individuals will be an important step in solving any imbalance in the Boston dining community.
I hope that we can set an example that is positive, inclusive, innovative, and kind. Those were the traits that drew me into the restaurants here 20-plus years ago. Thank you, Boston, for allowing me to grow in the hospitality industry over the past 27 years. It has been an honor to cook with legendary chefs, bartenders, servers, managers, and leaders, and we are so fortunate to be able to work with amazing suppliers, farmers, and foragers. I look forward to watching and learning from everyone for many more years to come.
- Chef Jamie Bissonnette of Somaek, Sushi at Temple Records, and Temple Records
